The North East
Lough Foyle to Carlingford Lough
The writing of this section of the guide was greatly assisted by referring
to ‘A Sea Kayaker’s Guide to the
Lough Foyle
C660-390 Sheet 3/4
Embarkation
The logical embarkation point for the outer regions of Lough Foyle is
Magilligan Point, by the
Further to the E, beyond the military zone, there is public access at about C716-363. There is a concrete slip across the beach. However, the beach surfs and there is a strong tidal drift. This may have relevance for launching. Expect caravans, lifeguards, and beach casting anglers.
Military installations on both sides show the importance of the lough in such terms.
The whole lough is less interesting inwards to the SW. There are large areas
of mudflats on the E side. That said, it is a busy, well marked and well lit
area. It is excellent for night navigation, sheltered but with strong tides. If
paddling up into the city, it is possible to take out at Prehen Boat Club
upstream of the
Road access is better on the Donegal side and there are nice secluded beaches. Greencastle at C648-400 lies directly across from Magilligan Point. The Donegal shore gets the more interesting up towards Inishowen Head at C685-438. The sea is much more exposed beyond the head.
Tides
Fierce tides push through the narrows. Rates of 3.5 knots should not be treated lightly. Eddies on the Donegal side are more pronounced and more usable in the latter half of flood and ebb. The ingoing stream is from about HW Belfast +0330 and the outgoing from HW Belfast -0230.
The Spanish
Armada
The Trinidad Valancera hit a reef of Inishowen and came ashore East of Lough Foyle. Its crew of 450 mostly got off safely. They were surrounded by the English and eventually surrendered. 36 of them were ransomed, and the rest of the prisoners were put to death.
Downhill
C753-362 Sheet 4
There is public access at the extreme E end of
There is good access and parking at Castlerock village itself at C766-365, where there is parking and toilets at the beach access point.
River Bann
C783-367 Sheet 4
To the E of Castlerock village is the Bar Mouth, where the River Bann flows into the sea. Turbulent water can be experienced quite a distance offshore. The flood at the mouth is weak by comparison to the ebb. Especially when the river is up, the ebb and the flow of the river combine to produce mighty standing waves. The flow of the river is controlled by floodgates well upstream. Powerful rip currents either side of the mouth are dangerous enough. The mouth artificially narrows the stream and this projects the fresh water out with great force. The fresh water is easily distinguished in the sea water and gives a good guide as to tide direction and strength off the beaches. The river is marked as far up as Coleraine. The area is a noted birding spot in winter.
Portstewart
C815-386 Sheet 4
The area behind Portstewart Strand to the W of the town is part golf course and part National Trust. There is fee-paying access to the NT section, where there are toilets and parking. There is a powerful rip each end of the strand. When the strand is dumping, it is better to launch off a slip at Portnahapple at C813-376, which is usable in most conditions.
The harbour at C815-386 can be difficult to enter or exit in heavy seas, with multi-directional reflected waves. The slip is exposed to surge. There is good parking and this is the access of choice in calm conditions.
There is some interesting rock hopping locally, clapotis almost always and some small caves and a blowhole that performs well in good swell. The tide can run fast around Portstewart Point.
Portstewart to
Portrush
C815-386 to C856-407 Sheet 4
The coastline here is basalt and reasonably interesting, low lying at first. Rinagree Point at C833-397 is the halfway point. To its W is Black Rock and just off it lies Lawson’s Rock, which breaks even in a moderate swell. It is possible to shelter in the lee of Black Rock. There is a tiny storm beach accessible from landward just E of Rinagree Point. Boomers may be expected hereabouts. Rock hopping and narrow channels are best enjoyed in calmer conditions and at about HW.
Portrush
C856-407 Sheet 4
Ramore Head is interesting exploring in calm conditions. Skerries Sound often kicks up and is best avoided by the inexperienced. The ebb sets up powerful standing waves.
The Skerries
Portrush
C875-427 Sheet 4
These rocky islands lie about 2km NE of Portrush. The islands are basalt and
the N side is ‘steep to’ and usually has unsettled sea conditions as the tide
and swell often work in opposition. They are mostly grassy and low on the S
side. Strong tide races set between the islands and associated rocks to their
N. The sheltered S side is usually settled, and the best landing on the large
skerry is towards the E end where there is almost a gap in the island. The
Skerries are privately owned so get permission to land from Mr Metson in
Portrush at 028 70857412, especially if intending to camp. There is a small
brackish lake on the large skerry. Large numbers of birds nest and some rabbits
survive. The best embarkation point is at
The Storks at C897-425 are rocks lying 2km ESE of the Skerries, and 1km NNW of Dunluce Castle. They are marked by a tall, unlit red beacon. Fishing is good hereabouts.
Portrush to
Portballintrae
C856-407 - C930-424 Sheet 4
It is mainly cliffs eastwards to Portballintrae. There are a number of
interesting caves in the first section along under prominent
In
Portballintrae
to Dunseverick
C930-424 to C999-447 Sheet 5
The rocks between the harbour and Bushfoot Strand can be fun at HW. On
passage however, give them plenty of clearance. Stay at least 200m clear of the
E harbour entrance to avoid a boomer called the Blind Rock. Bushfoot is named
for the River Bush which flows in here at the SW corner. Upriver 2km is the
town of
The coastline eastwards is the
Just SE of the off-lying rock, the Mile Stone at C934-440, is the massive and beautiful Runkerry Cave at C935-439, complete with boulder beach and long dry passage. There are other caves hereabouts, most notably in a small cove 0.5km E of Runkerry called locally Portcoon, with a dry side entrance.
There is a slip in Portnaboe, the last cove before the Causeway proper. Visitors once walked from this point, before the access from above was organised.
The Causeway section itself is 5km around Benbane Head (C965-461). There are many exposures of geological features; dykes, sills and the various layers of volcanic activity are easily seen. The Causeway itself and all the related geology are far better seen from seaward. In strong offshore winds there are vicious down draughts and each of the bays can funnel the wind to strong gusts.
The Spanish
Armada
The tragedy of the Girona, wrecked
at Lacada Point C952-455, was that it was the most seaworthy of several ships
that sailed on
Formidable tides run off Benbane Head and great seas can build up off it and off Bengore Head 1km E.
Port Moon
Port Moon at C979-451 on the E side of Contham Head C978-4456 is a natural small boat harbour among low rocks at the base of a 60m cliff. A stone cottage with a rusty roof marks the spot to the passerby, as do the salmon net poles around it, when close in. The gut is 100m by 8m and there are rings on either side for shorelines. The port enjoys 1.5m LWS at the outer end. Landing is possible onto a sheltered but rough and stony shore/slip. Camping is nearby on grass, and there is even a stream. It has the remote feel of an island, despite a steep zig-zag path up the cliff to the public Causeway Coast Path.
The coastline eastwards towards
Dunseverick to
Ballintoy
C999-447 - D039-456 Sheet 5
The rocky area immediately E of Dunseverick is cliffy with caves hidden from
view by raised beaches.
There is a youth hostel set high above the beach itself, behind the official car park. It is a long carry to the beach and not really suitable for kayak launching. The beach gives good surf though. Boulders and a dyke called the Long Causeway obstruct the E end. The rocky islets E of the beach towards Islandoo at D038-457 are NT and give good sport in the right conditions.
Ballintoy -
Ballycastle
D039-456 - D121-415 Sheet 5
Inside Islandoo lies the wonderful Ballintoy harbour at D039-456, a splendid embarkation place for this area generally, or for just a lunch stop. The tides are really powerful through the channels, even right outside the harbour mouth. The harbour has a strand for landing, two slips, toilets and even a coffee shop. It gets congested in summer. Take care towing a trailer down to the harbour, as the road is steep and twisty. Good facilities, great views. Lovely.
The tides set so strongly and eddy so fiercely in the main offshore current
that it is possible to surf the deep water eddies in
D048-458 Sheet 5
There is a strong eddy between the island and Larry Bane Head at D049-452. The power of the eddy gives only a hint of the strength of the tide races in the main current on the N side.
Landing
Landing can be made at two points. On the N of the island is an obvious bay. A boulder beach at the head of the bay gives access to a corrie-shaped area whose southern side is a narrow ridge linking the higher points of the SW and NE sides. The climb from the boulder beach is firstly on easy grassy slopes but then onto steeper rock. An exposed climb leads onto high grassy slopes. The climb should not be underestimated as the rock is loose and the slope steep.
A second landing, with easier access and support holds, is located on the SE corner.
SPA
Cormorant
D062-449 Sheet 5
Carrickarede
to Ballycastle
The cliff scenery now becomes quite majestic. The small wooded area at Port More is very unusual. Buzzards are common hereabouts. Landing may be had by an old winch on the W side of a forest. It is possible to escape here, but it is a long scramble to the nearest road.
Watch for the splendid through-cave in Kinbane Head at D088-438. Tides set strongly at the head, and a very defined line separates the eddy from the flow. This is an excellent teaching area. Landing is possible on the W side of the head. A long steep path leads up the cliff to a car park on the E side.
Nice cliffs join Kinbane Head to Ballycastle, with dramatic caves. The cliff structure hereabouts is liable to rock fall, the slips evident by lack of vegetation. One such is directly above an inviting cave entrance, so do take care.
Ballycastle has a number of options for landing. The large breakwater has a concrete slip. The old pier has a slipway beside it. Car parking abounds, except in summer congestion. There is also a car park at the E end of the beach at D132-416 by Pans Rocks.
Chart 2798 covers the general area, as does OSNI Sheet 5. The information in the Pilot and the Sailing Directions is essential on this challenging section of coastline.
Rathlin lies just over 10km N of Ballycastle, where there is a good
embarkation place at the pier at D122-415. The island is served by regular
ferry, and boasts a stable population. Most of the habitation and services are
at
The island, steeped in history, has a distinct character all its own.
Wallace Clark’s book ‘Rathlin - Disputed Island’ gives a lot of information
about its history from the earliest settlers to modern times. In earliest times
porcellainite, or flint (as in stone age axes) was mined here and exported. The
island was successively conquered and reconquered by the Vikings, Scots,
Normans and the English. Most famously, it was litigated over between
Circumnavigation
For the sea canoeist, this is one of the most committing of paddles, which is best done clockwise as the shape of the island sets up eddies to one’s advantage. The E side is the only part where progress could be made against the tide. The island is ‘L’ shaped and at each of the headlands there are major tide races, which are always active except at slack water, though it is generally possible to stay inshore and avoid their full force. The MacDonnell Race at the NE corner is particularly fearsome.
The cliffs on the N side are high and dark and the feeling of exposure is
greatest here. There are caves in the NE corner near the E lighthouse, the most
famous of which is said to have been used by Robert the Bruce, where he met his
spider. The S facing cliffs W of Church Bay are chalk overlaid with basalt, and
very picturesque. There are some interesting shapes and stacks as one nears the
W end of the island. There is an old pier at D102-509 in
SPA
Peregrine, Guillemot, Razorbill.
The island, and the NE corner of
A large colony of Common Seal may be found in
Rathlin mice are the biggest in
Embarkation
and Tides
The most obvious embarkation place is from Ballycastle, and the best time to
start the crossing is just before slack water
Ballycastle -
Cushendall
D121-415 - D263-256 Sheet 5
There is a good view of
The shore from Pans Rock at D133-417 to
These cliffs were discovered for climbers by a sea kayaker on passage, Keith Britton. In 1964, Geoff Earnshaw and Calvert Moore put up the first climb - Earnshaw’s Chimney. By 2003, there were 363 routes at Fair Head cliffs, the finest in the land, bar none. This was the first recorded of many such interactions between these symbiotic outdoor pursuits, kayaking and climbing.
Eastwards, the shoreline changes to steep and unstable grass slopes, intermingled with loose cliff and scree. There is a small landing E of Torr Head at D234-408. Have a look at the interesting stone shelter in the mouth of the cave. The local fishermen are particularly informative. Have a fair tide hereabouts, or suffer.
The coastline S is much the same, steep grass eroded to provide exposed rock on the shore. The lack of distinct features makes judging progress difficult. There are some pleasant shingle beaches N of Cushendun.
At Cushendun, land at the S end where a lane gives access to a car park,
near the outflow of the
The coastline S to Cushendall is similar. There is a car park in Cushendall at the N end of the beach, with easy access at D263-256.
The Maidens
The Maidens or Hulin Rocks are two small lighthouse islands located 9km ENE
of Ballygalley. The West Maiden is also known as the Northern Rock, its
lighthouse is called the
Embarkation
The most convenient is from a large car park with a slipway and access to a small shingle beach at D378-080 between Ballygalley and Ballygalley Head.
Shipping:
The safest route to the island means staying N of Ballygalley Head. The port
of Larne just S is busy with very fast cross channel ferries and shipping. Most
take a line from Larne to
West Maiden
D450-115 Sheet 9
The West Tower Lighthouse and its attendant three storey cut-stone buildings dominate the island. The lighthouse tower can still be climbed internally, as the old stairway steps are still in reasonable condition. Access to the flat unprotected roof is through a narrow opening in the top floor. The view is worth the effort. An interesting iron walkway bridge links the tower to the accommodation block. The keepers’ quarters are now quite ruined and their layout compares interestingly with those on the more modern East Maiden.
Landing
Landing on the West Maiden is more difficult than on the East Maiden. The most suitable area for deep water landing onto rock shelves is located on the W side, N of the old pier under some large rocky outcrops. No beach was found but several cuts may be usable at HW. There is an old pathway that leads NW from the main building to NW corner but no steps or obvious landing was located. The old pier at the SW corner is not suitable for kayak landings.
East Maiden
D457-114 Sheet 9
This is a small but attractive low-lying rocky island dominated by the East Tower Lighthouse and its attendant buildings. Space is at a premium but the lighthouse buildings are well maintained and their layout invites one to explore.
Landing
Landing is at either the NW or SE corner onto steps or onto rock shelves at lower tides. Landing should not be underestimated as tides run strongly around the island and through the sounds and channels that separate the lighthouse islands from a series of outlying skerries. An older disused pier is located at the S end.
D465-025 Sheet 9
A medium sized island, about 1km N/S, located 300m off the mainland near the
beautiful little
J536-837 Sheet 15
Rumoured to be either privately owned or National Trust property, Cockle is
quite extensive at LW but tiny at HW. It
shelters the harbour at Groomsport, enabling a couple of dozen moorings in its
lee. A remarkable reef, it is submerged
by the highest tides, and there is no grass or greenery of any kind. It is always separated from the shore by deep
water. Black Headed Gulls and Herring
Gulls occupy different sections of it for roosting. There are reports of Terns nesting. Its claim to fame includes a Sooty Tern
(called locally “Wideawake Tern” in
Launch from the slipway at Cockle Island Sailing Club on the pier just SE (the pier is not shown on the OS).
Groomsport is an unsatisfactory embarkation point for the Copelands because the tides are never right. The ebb from Belfast Lough pushes E towards the islands while the ebb outside is pushing N away from them. The flood in the Lough pushes away when outside it is pushing towards. A slingshot from Donnaghadee is far preferable, if it can be arranged.
Sheet 15
Embarkation
Donaghadee is the logical embarkation point for a day trip to the
Tides
There are strong tide races through the sounds. The tide floods SE from Belfast HW +0500 to HW 0100, about an hour ahead of the tide on the rocks by the shore. The streams through Donaghadee Sound achieve 4.5 knots in places, and through Copeland Sound achieve 2.5 knots, so great care is necessary.
Off the islands, the tide turns about an hour later. The infamous Ram Race forms just at the E tip of Mew, and extends for up to 2km SSE on the flood and NNW on the ebb. On the S going flood a huge eddy forms behind Mew. This loops back on itself, along the coast from about Ballyferis Point, 7km S of Donaghadee, and then out E of the islands. The race to the SSE of Mew is at its worst where the two re-join, on the second half of the flood, from about HW Belfast -0215 to +0030 (i.e. about local HW). The NNW race occurs on the last half of the ebb from HW Belfast +0345 to +0615 (i.e. about local LW).
SPA
Arctic Tern, Brent Goose, Ringed & Golden Plover, Turnstone.
Fauna
The islands are internationally important sites for breeding populations of
Manx Shearwater and Arctic Tern and nationally important sites for breeding
Mediterranean Gull, Common Gull and Eider Duck.
The Manx Shearwater colony on
Big Copeland has an internationally important Arctic Tern colony, with some
550 pairs. The site now represents the largest colony for this species in
The islands are the most important breeding sites in
Big Copeland has recently held
The islands are home to a nationally important population of breeding Eider
Duck. In total the three islands account for 14% of the Irish population. Non-
breeding Eider form part of the nationally important population that occurs
along the Outer Ards coast and Belfast Lough areas.
Other breeding colonies of note include Black Guillemot, Water Rail and
Stock Dove. The latter species has suffered a dramatic decline in
Breeding waders such as Lapwing and Snipe may be found further inland. Here the taller vegetation, interspersed with open areas, provides an ideal breeding habitat.
Birds of prey favour the islands when the breeding season is over. Hen Harrier, Sparrowhawk, Buzzard, Kestrel, Merlin and Peregrine are all be seen regularly.
Grey Seal and Common Seal can be found off the
J590-834 Sheet 15
The very beautiful
History
Historically called
The graveyard 200m from the landing at
Landing
Sandy beach landings are possible in
Flora and
Fauna
Grazed mainly by rabbits and sheep, the island is short grassed and pleasant to walk. Two immature Golden Eagle were seen in April 2006, some Pheasant, and a Short Eared Owl.
J597-856 Sheet 15
Lighthouse Island (sometimes referred to as John’s Island) lies 2km N of
Copeland Island, is owned by the National Trust, and has a bird observatory on
top, used by the NT. Landing is at the SE corner at J597-856 onto sand at LW
but stones on higher tides. Originally the lighthouse was here, but a later
light was lit on the better placed
J602-861 Sheet 15
Before the lighthouse was built on Mew, a spectacular wreck was that of the
‘
A great tragedy was played out here on
When the rescue services finally came on the scene, the seas were truly mountainous. Great heroism later merited several gallantry awards of the highest level available to non-military personnel. Captain Ferguson (brother of Harry Ferguson, inventor of the modern tractor) and his radio operator David Broadfoot stayed at their posts to the end and went down with the ship. 121 died. There were 44 survivors, all adult males.
The same storm peaked in the
Sheet 21 /
Sheet 15
The paddling from Donaghadee at J691-802 to Ballyquintin Point at J624-454
at the mouth of
The coastline from Donaghadee to Ballyhalbert Point at J664-630 is less interesting than further S, being of shingle and sand beaches.
Next comes Portavogie at J663-595, a busy fishing harbour often congested with trawlers. North Rock at J674-561 with its breeding Grey Seals, lies 3km SSE. South Rock at J677-531 lies 2km offshore and 3km N of Kearney Point. The rocky shoreline of Kearney Point at J645-511 is owned by the National Trust and is a good place to go ‘rock pool peering’ for marine invertebrates such as Dog Whelks, Mussels, and Starfish. It is a very enjoyable day trip to catch the ebb tide from Strangford out to the mouth, then N to the Rocks, and back on the flood. The South Rock lightship, fully automated, lies 2km ENE of the South Rocks. There is a spit of land between the North Rocks and Ringboy Point at J650-574 to the WNW. Occasionally the sea can become steep and untidy here, particularly when the swell is against the tide.
Tides
The tidal stream decreases as one travels southwards towards Ballyhalbert from 4.5 knots in Donaghadee Sound to about 2.5 knots off Skullmartin Rock at J649-687. Further S, from Ballyhalbert Point at J664-630 to Ballyquintin Point at J624-454, the tides run along the coast and reach 1.5 knots in springs.
Strangford Lough
Sheet 21
Strangford Lough is one of the largest sea loughs in
SPA
Strangford is the premier autumn arrival site for the Brent Goose. Some
remain on for the winter but most disperse to other sites throughout
There are 2 species of seal to be found around our coasts. They are the Common (or Harbour) Seal and the Grey Seal. They are quite distinctly different. The Common has a spaniel dog type of head and is considerably smaller than the Grey, which has a flat head with a large obvious nose. There are about 400 Common Seals and 80 Grey Seals in the lough.
The Common Seal give birth in June and it is most entertaining to watch the antics of the pups from the quiet position of a sea kayak. The greys give birth in October and it is a rare and beautiful sight to see the white furry pups of these much larger seals.
Chart 2156 and OS sheet 21 each covers the lough in detail.
Angus Rock
Sheet 21 J610-453
Angus Rock is the first point of note entering the
There are overfalls and broken water around Angus Rock, both on the flood and ebb tide. See the tidal stream atlas for details. On spring tides, from the 1st to 3rd hour of the ebb, an interesting grade 2 rapid occurs on the N side of the Angus Rock. This can get up to about a grade 3 with a diagonal stopper during very big equinoctial springs. There is a drop in sea level across the rocks of about 3 feet and it is possible to get good surfing on the stopper wave.
On the last hour of the ebb, an enjoyable set of waves often form, again on the N side of the Angus Rock, where you can join the seals for some surfing. On the flood tide, again just N of the Rock, another small set of overfalls is formed. There is an obvious drop in the sea level followed by small boils and whirlpools.
The
Sheet 21
Strangford Lough covers 150km2 of sea and contains 1650 million m3
of sea water at high tide. HW at Portaferry is at least 2 hours later than at
the mouth of the
Embarkation
Points
Where to put in and out depends entirely on the tidal flow at the time, and the main attraction of the expedition. For the deep water surfing at the mouth, there are a number of choices along the W side from Ballyhornan as far up as Kilclief, to taste. For the Routen Wheel approach so as to go home downstream, and for small groups that means just about anywhere, as the roads each side are favourable.
Tides
At the entrance to the
Routen Wheel
The next point of interest is the Routen Wheel, just SW of Rue Point. The
Wheel is on the E side of the channel. It is quite easy to avoid by closely
hugging the coast along the E side. A good viewing point is from the wee island
called
The Wheel is characterised by short-lived but heavy and violent boils, whirlpools and stoppers. It is caused by an underwater ridge of rock only 4.6m below the surface, rising suddenly either side from 18m below, sticking diagonally out from the shallower E side of the main channel into the main flow. The NE/SW ridge that creates the Wheel is situated along a line 200m SW of Rue Point at J597-487 to J599-489. This is no ordinary rapid. A boil forms, then another beside it swivelling the other way, and soon a whirlpool forms on the boundary. Admire it as pretty, but then you are in it, sinking ever lower, pointing upstream, to the side, down again, then the whirlpool stops and away you go again. Paddling back up through the Wheel is an experience too as you try to read the water, the way boils are pushing and so on. A good eddy exists S of Rue Point on the E side, as far as Gowland Rock at J603-485, so that a number of runs of the Wheel can be enjoyed.
The Wheel occurs during both the flood and ebb tide although it tends to be more violent during the ebb. The turbulence lasts for about 400m and any capsises can easily be dealt with beyond the turbulence. Rescues need to be swift as the speed of the current reaches 7.5 knots. It is safer to play during the flood.
Tidal
Electricity
A first for Ireland and the biggest by far in Europe, just 1km NNW of the Routen Wheel lies SeaGen at J599-494, the world’s only commercially viable underwater electricity generator. SeaGen is a prototype wind farm for tidal races. With twin huge blades of 16m either side of a central pillar, the propellers catch a massive 400m.sq of passing water. 300m.sq is required for profitability, and most other designs are well short of the mark. The blades about turn every slack water so as not to lose a minutes effort, and they can be raised for easy maintenance. Boats including kayaks may pass by with impunity as the blades are well below the surface, and no seals are as yet known to have suffered any trauma. The pillar supporting the generator is round, which is a bad shape for downstream turbulence and consequent environmental worries, but the whole project including the impact of its water turbulence is being closely monitored, and the whole project will be reviewed after a few years.
There is a rapid beside a beacon to one side, Gowland Rock at J603-485, where a surf wave forms, just like on a river. The area around here is used a lot by seals to haul out on the rocks. Care should be taken not to disturb them from their haul outs as it can cause injury.
One of the greatest dangers on the
‘Exploris’, an excellent aquarium, is situated within a minute’s walk from the main slip at Portaferry and is well worth a visit as it has displays of the marine wildlife of the lough and the Irish Sea.
Another place well worth a visit is the Barn at Castleward, owned by the
National Trust, in
Audley’s Castle, built in the 16th Century, lies on the W side of the
Inner
Strangford Lough
Sheet 21
Embarkation Points
For such a large area, embarkation
points are few enough. There are none at
all on the E side with the exception of the main towns in the
· Portaferry J594-507 - the slip N of the marina with reasonably good car parking,
· Strangford J589-497 - the slip at to the S of the ferry terminal with good car parking,
· Killyleagh J528-520 – the slip at the sailing club, in small discreet numbers. If access difficulties, there are other places along the shore, closer to town.
· Ringhaddy J526-585 – limited parking.
Tides
Inside the lough, the tidal strength decreases from 6 knots between the two
towns to 4 knots at
The E coast of the lough has a lot less of interest to the canoeist than the W due to the lack of islands etc. However, at ‘The Dorn’ at J593-568, there is a reasonable tidal flow from an enclosed bay of up to 2.5 knots, especially on the ebb and a spectacular marine waterfall about an hour to two after high water.
In the SW corner,
To the SW of Salt Island lies the
Heading N from the barrage which protects Downpatrick from tidal flooding,
lies
The W side of the lough is a fascinating maze of submerged drumlin hills
forming over 100 islands and rock pladdies.
Between Taggart and
Islandmore is now inhabited all the year round. The ‘Blue Cabin’ on the W side of Islandmore
at J538-584 is owned and lived in by Michael Faulkner (son of the last prime
minister of
Between Islandmore and Ringhaddy lies the interesting wreck of the “Alastor” in 10 – 15m maximum depth. She went down in 1946 as a result of an accidental fire on board, but is still good for diving. She was at the time wrongly identified as the “Alisdair” and forgotten. Then in April 2004 QUBSAC adopted her as the subject of an experiment to test the efficiency of a new underwater measuring tape. The results were all over the place, to the extent they had to conclude there was some mistake. The Alastor was eventually correctly identified. Until commandeered in WW2 by the Royal Navy for active service, it had been the pleasure yacht of Sir Thomas Sopwith who designed the Sopwith Camel bi-plane of the Great War and the Hawker Hurricane of WW2 (that actually won the Battle of Briton, and not its iconic cousin the Spitfire – the Hurricane being faster than the Mescherschmitt 109, speed then as now being everything). Later the Alastor belonged to the Shelley family (as in Percy Bysshe, composer of Ozymandias, and Mary Shelley inventor of Frankenstein). Now the wreck belongs to the Faulkeners of Islandmore.
Green Island Rock at J545-602 is a haul out for Common Seal and is very accessible to allow a group of novices to experience canoeing with seals.
To the W and N of Rainey Island at J527-630, there are two channels where
the tide runs either side of the island at up to 5 knots in its rush to fill or
empty
The area NW of Mahee Island holds little of interest to the canoeist, unless you’re into mud wrestling in a big way, as large expanses of mudflats cover the area. The NW mudflats do support vast numbers of waders. During the winter, the statistics of birds using the lough demonstrates the international importance of Strangford as a wildlife sanctuary:
Swans 290+
Geese 13,500+ (including 1,300 Pale-bellied Brent
Geese, more than 75% of the world population)
Ducks 9,000+
Waders 50,000+
The lough has areas renowned for their beauty or scientific importance and legislation protects this valuable and unique area. Access is unrestricted in the lough and conservationists rely heavily on the goodwill of recreational users. The National Trust has produced ‘The Castaways Code’ and map for those using the lough for recreational boating. This should be consulted before paddling in the lough during the nesting season (April-June) and the islands marked ‘Birds Welcome’ should be avoided.
J596-415 Sheet 21
Most of the time, a reasonably strong tide runs between
There is a lovely old stone navigation marker painted white on the SE tip. Beside it lies the remains of an old ruined church. Thick grass covers the island. Very attractive spot.
Fauna
The SE side of Guns Island is a mass of nesting Kittiwake, Guillemot and Cormorant on the cliff ledges and paddlers should keep a reasonable distance offshore to avoid disturbance during the nesting season (April-June). The N side is favoured by a large colony of gulls that nest on the tussock grass just above the shore.
Strangford
Lough to Carlingford Lough
Sheet 21/Sheet
29
Killard Point at J613-435, a National Nature Reserve, is well worth a visit, especially in June to see the abundance of butterflies and wild flowers growing on the sand dunes. Among these can be found the beautiful Bee Orchid, Spotted Orchid, Wild Thyme and Yellow Rattle. Butterflies include the Common Blue, Small Heath and Meadow Brown.
The 14km from the entrance of Strangford Lough to St.John’s Point is a lovely paddle along small cliffs and a rocky shore of siltstones and shales believed to be formed during the Silurian period, 435 million years ago. This area is known as the Lecale and shortly after the last ice age would have been a large island with the sea connecting Dundrum inner bay with Strangford Lough.
At Legnaboe, on the mainland about 600m S of the southern tip of Guns Island, there is a narrow sea cave which appears safe to enter at all states of the tide, provided there is little swell.
Along this piece of coast lie the villages of Ardglass at J563-373 and Killough at J540-363. Although Killough was an important fishing port, the harbour is now derelict, whilst Ardglass has taken over as a principal fishing port, famous for its herrings, pronounced locally as ‘hearns’. A new marina has been built at Ardglass and there is easy access to the sea from both Killough and Ardglass.
SPA
Brent Goose (
From St. John’s Point at J526-333 to Newcastle (a distance of 15km as the crow flies or as the canoeist paddles), the scenery is dominated by the beach and sand dune systems of Murlough National Nature Reserve (NNR).
Within the inner bay at Dundrum, there is a causeway and bridge at J402-356.
This connects the farms and houses within Murlough NNR to the main Dundrum to
During the ebb from Dundrum inner bay, tremendous deep water surfing waves
can be formed at the entrance if there is even a little swell from the S or E.
However, once the tide has finished ebbing, the only practical course of action
is to paddle to
For 2km to the S and 3km to the N of the entrance to Dundrum inner bay, care
must be taken due to the rifle range at the army camp at Ballykinler. There are
3 yellow marker buoys marked DZ and the paddler should keep to the seaward side
of these when the red flag (day) or red lights (night) are visible over the
base just N of the entrance to the inner bay. However, tracers have been
sighted by local canoeists doing a night paddle from St.John’s Point to
The tides along this section of coast to St.John’s Point are weak. A trip from St.John’s Point to Newcastle is a very popular paddle on a good moonlit night as you have the lighthouse flashing behind you, the twinkling lights of Newcastle to aim for and the foreboding outline of the Mournes dominating the paddle.
A sewage outfall pipe lies about 1 cable offshore to the S of the harbour
and, although
The scenery of the
From
There are a number of small but enjoyable caves in the area, one of which
has a blowhole at the top. There are also two bigger caves, one of which involves
a 50m squeeze, where hands are needed to get through. This cave is not obvious
from the sea but it can be found with careful exploring and it’s worth going
through, especially in a plastic boat!. The other large cave has a small rocky
beach at the back and if there isn’t much swell, it’s good fun landing and
exploring on up the cave. A short trip from
The next principal port is Annalong which has a small harbour at J378-197,
used mainly by small craft engaged in creeling (laying lobster pots). Further
along the coast is a small rock called
Then, passing Lee Stone Point at J334-144, the large granite boulder
(another relic of the ice age known as an erratic) is an obvious feature. The
fishing
Carlingford
Lough
Carlingford Lough is the most dramatic sea lough on the E coast of
The S side of the lough is in the
The tidal streams within the lough are weak and a pleasant and undemanding crossing can be made from Killowen or Rostrevor Quays to Carlingford village. However, during strong WNW winds, squalls funnel down from the hills around Rostrevor and cause little cyclones and mini tornadoes on the sea. These are known locally as ‘Kettles’ as the water appears to boil and steam off the surface.
The
SPA
Common and
J255-096 Sheet 29
The lighthouse just to the E at J260-096 is 20m high with a white light flashing three times every ten seconds and an ancillary red light lower down continuously flashing. Landing at the lighthouse is not permitted and anyway can only be achieved in calm conditions. The main channel into the lough passes to the N of the island, where one must avoid commercial shipping. Navigation in the lough is very buoyage orientated so consider using Chart 2800.
Embark on the southern side of the lough from Greenore or from the pretty
On
Tides
Tides run strongly in the lough entrance near the island, where the ebb and
flow start with -local HW and LW, which are much the same as
Good overfalls and races occur during both the flood and the ebb around the Haulbowline Lighthouse. The most pleasant and relatively safe playing in these overfalls is on the flood tide. The area is regularly used by local clubs and centres for rough water training.
The East Coast
Greenore Point to
Islands off Skerries
A group of three low-lying islands lie just off the coast at Skerries, with ‘The Rock’ further off. Taken together they form an interesting day trip with good wildlife interest. They are listed as areas of Scientific Interest by Duchás with SPA status. Camping is possible, but no water is available. The presence of a healthy population of rats on the inner islands may discourage an overnight. Rugged Rockabill further out is a lighthouse island rock.
SPA
Short-eared Owl (up to 7 in winter), Golden Plover, and Common,
Embarkation
The most convenient embarkation place is at the slipway beside the RNLI
building at the pier in Skerries, where parking is generally convenient at
O255-612. Do not, under any circumstances, block the access to or interfere
with the operation of the lifeboat station, or of the working pier. The main
catch at Skerries is prawn and shrimp. Accordingly, the local fishermen are
benignly disposed to seals, which do not catch either. Seals are plentiful
hereabouts. Launching may also be had less conveniently from the E facing
Tides
Local HW/LW is the same as for
Inshore amongst the inner islands, the flow starts at HW Dublin -0100. Tides flow strongly in the sounds.
Between the inner islands and Rockabill, the ebb starts an hour later, at Dublin HW. The flood runs N from -0615 to HW Dublin, and reaches 1.5 knots in springs.
O267-611 Sheet 43
A small, low-lying island lying just off the point at Skerries. Land easily on sand/shingle on SW side. The E side has reefs and breakers that should be avoided in strong NE - SE winds in spring ebb tides.
Saint
Patrick’s
O276-613 Sheet 43
A small island, outside Colt, known locally as
There is the ruin of an Early Christian Church and a small monastery, which dates back to Viking times. It was important enough to merit a synod being held in 1148 in which fifteen bishops, two hundred priests, and several other clergy assisted. The church towards the eastern tip is still very much worth the visit.
St Patrick’s
The NE and eastern sides of the island catch the full ebb tide over a rocky
underwater reef. Overfalls can develop, especially in S to SE winds against a
spring ebb tide. In the sound between St. Patrick’s and
O267-598 Sheet 43
Shenick is the most southerly of the inshore group and is dominated by a
The passage between
Rockabill
O323-626 Sheet 43
Rockabill is the larger of two granite rocky islets, strictly called
The Roseate Tern is an endangered species so do respect the rules.
Landing
Landing on
The Bill
O323-628 Sheet 43
Landing is possible on the Bill at low water in calm conditions onto rock shelves on the western corner. At LW springs, it is possible to clamber across kelp-covered rocks between the two islands. The Bill is quite an enjoyable rock scramble, and holds breeding Arctic Tern, Common Tern and a small Kittiwake colony in season.
O315-500 Sheet 43
Embarkation
The closest approach is from
Landing
The island is privately owned by the Revelstoke family and no landing should take place. This is particularly true of the W side of the island where the main harbour and housing is situated. If in distress, at least stay below the high water line, and out of sight. The owners value their privacy, the welfare of the nesting wild bird population, and the health of the most unusual domesticated animal population, marsupials included.
There are two satisfactory beaches on the N side, just E of the north-west point, one tucked into the point itself facing E at O310-515, and the other is just further E, below an unsightly rubbish dump, facing N at O312-512.
There are no beaches or landing sites anywhere on the eastern half of the
island, but there are three excellent, small, sandy or stony beaches on the S
side, in sheltered coves. One is in the middle in
Tides
Tidal races run strongly on all four corners. Local HW is the same as Dublin HW. The stream floods N from HW Dublin +0430 to -0130, and ebbs in reverse. Between Lambay and the mainland, 2 knots can be achieved in springs.
Fauna
The island is a significant wild bird habitat and holds internationally
important numbers of breeding Cormorant, Shag, Razorbill and Guillemot. 59,000
breeding pairs of Guillemot were counted in 1995/1999, which makes it the
second most important colony in
SPA
Barnacle Goose, Peregrine
History
Seabirds eggs have been harvested here on the grand scale in times of
crisis. Apparently the birds all feed on municipal dumps across on the mainland
and the eggs do no taste fishy at all at all. In WW2 the eggs were collected
and exported to
Praeger
In 1905/6 Robert Lloyd Praeger,
Shipwreck
The White Star Line lost the largest merchantman ever built in Britain, its biggest, best, and most modern passenger ship, on its maiden voyage, in a major tragedy with huge loss of life, trying to set a new record for the shortest ever sea passage to the new world for the British and Irish emigrants aboard. Sounds familiar ? Sounds like the Titanic? Wrong.
Long before the Titanic in 1912, it had all happened before.
The ‘Tayleur’ left
The ship was undermanned. The crew was inexperienced. No one on board had yet worked out how to use a compass aboard a metal craft. “Magnetic deviation” was less understood at the time than magnetic variation. In thick weather, land was sighted ahead. It was misidentified, at terrible cost.
Too late, remedial action failed. The passengers, knowing disaster was at
hand, crowded the decks and got in the way of the crew. Worse, communication among the crew became
impossible in the bedlam on deck. The
ship struck the E point of Lambay. In shallow water, the ship died slowly
against the rocks. Escape from the ship at this critical point favoured the
able bodied, requiring climbing across a mesh of ropes to the shore. While 200 of the 300 adult men made it, only
3 of the 200 others on board, women and children, survived. Many of the mainly
Lascar and Chinese crew saved themselves and disappeared. Bodies littered the shore for weeks after. More
than half of all aboard drowned. A lot of the figures are estimates. 100 are
buried on Lambay. It is guessed that 345 survived and did eventually make
Sunk
O323-398 Sheet 50
A small rocky island located on the SE corner of
Landing at times of HW is onto a very convenient flat rock platform at SW
corner. No water. No camping. Climb to small grass covered top overlooking
narrow cut on its W side. This very narrow cut with steep walls on both sides
separates the island from
For camping kayakers on passage, getting past
O198-660 -
Balbriggan
2km NNW of the town. Known locally as
O270-545 -
Rush -
Camping and caravan park, tel. 01-8437131. A short carry from HW mark. Land
onto a safe sandy beach. Pub grub at 400m walk. Coming from
Malahide
Arches
O225-469 Sheet 50
Most of Malahide Estuary is separated from the open sea by a man-made
embankment over which runs the
The average
For the higher spring tides, playtime starts at Dublin HW -0200, and the best of the fun finishes at about Dublin HW or a little after. On lower spring tides, playtime begins a bit later at around Dublin HW -0130. In midsummer, it may well be possible to have a suitable daylight tide late in the evening, but for 95% of the year, all play will take place in the relatively early morning, what some may regard as the ‘Crack of Noon’. Appropriate starting times vary, mostly between 0830 and 1130.
In bigger spring tides, it is best to arrive before the water begins to pour, as that is when the waves and stoppers are most friendly. As time progresses, the water force becomes much stronger. Although the surfing becomes more dramatic, the waveacquisition needs that bit more energy, the eddies become less pronounced, and the penalty for error the more tiring as the length and power of the runoff increases.
On smaller spring tides, the run through begins as above, at Dublin HW 0200, but lacks power for half an hour or more. It achieves its best in the last hour before Dublin HW, and goes on a bit longer. Also, the eddies are not washed out as much, and though the surf waves are much less powerful, they are magic.
There are about twelve arches. The strongest flow, and where eddies are hardest to acquire, is in the middle. A wreck was jammed against the outside of the embankment until Christmas 1996. Its absence is still much regretted. It used to greatly lessen the flow to the three arches it immediately blocked, and send great forces of water to the arches on either side, creating huge variety in playing characteristics. Now the variation is somewhat less. However, there is still great variation, both from arch to arch, and from minute to minute as the tide builds, and the inner bay deepens.
The Arches also seem to be entirely hazard free, suitable for any group competent and willing to perform frequent Xrescues. Intermediate to Advanced standard or Proficiency Level 3/4 upwards is advised. Downstream of the actual stoppers and playwaves, the turbulent runoff stretches out 150m. In places, it is reminiscent of easier megavolume Alpine rivers, with confused maneating boils and eddy lines.
It is best to park inside or W of the railway line, on the Malahide side of the estuary. The road from the village runs along the inner bay, and parking is in lay-bys at O223-463. Starting on the seaward side would involve a carry across the railway line when finished, as playtime ends long before the flow under the arches starts -going out.
Approaching Malahide from
SPA
Bar-tailed Godwit, Golden Plover, Little Egret, Ruff, Kingfisher.
O284-414 Sheet 50
The island is noted for its rock climbing on the tor at the NE corner, on the sea stack just off it, and also on the big cliff centred on the N side. Do please though exercise caution as regards bird life, and climb later in the season.
The church dates back to 700, and is called Cill MacNessan. A manuscript similar to the more famous Book of Kells was penned here by three monks, and it is also preserved in Trinity College Dublin.
SPA
Peregrine. The island is a breeding ground for various auks, Fulmar,
Kittiwake, Shag, Cormorant, gulls, and others. In particular, a Gannet colony
started to breed here in 1989, and is now the only significant such colony
between the Saltees to the S and Ailsa Craig in
Embarkation
and Landing
There is convenient access at a public slipway beside the Lifeboat Station
at O285-394 in
The Round of
Howth Head
The round of Howth Head is a popular trip for
The put-in point to the N is at the public slipway at the RNLI station in
The round of Howth is usually done -anti clockwise, on a rising tide, best
in calm or gentle southerlies. An ‘out and back’ trip from
SPA
Fulmar, Cormorant, Shag, Herring Gull, Kittiwake, Guillemot, Razorbill, Black Guillemot.
Tides
The main E coast streams run N and S off the Bailey and the Nose, and on
both sides of
The main E coast flood enters
In the first hour or two of the flood, from Dublin HW -0600 to -0400, paddlers often find that the stream exiting Dublin Bay E is stronger than the main coastal flood N. Thus the stream at the Bailey is E, and sets up a huge circular eddy, for about 2km to the N.
Outside part
All up along the S part of the E coast of Ireland lies an offshore bank, on average less than 15km off, called by different names as it progresses N. Off Arklow it is called the Arklow Bank, off Greystones the Codling Bank, off Bray the Bray Bank, off Dublin South the Kish Bank, and then off Dublin North the Bennet Bank. Tides flow differently inside and outside this offshore feature.
From the
Outside the
The
O390-311 No Sheet (50)
The
Tides:
Tidal flow
changes direction
Planning:
One
should depart in order to reach the
In fog keep
an eye out for the
Ferries and
fishing vessels pose a danger, so know the times of the ferries before
departing. Remember that the ferry must go north of the Kish bank and south of
the Burford bank
Special
interest: Storm petrels and porpoises.
History
A light
ship was first used in 1811. In foggy weather a gong was sounded but when the
Holyhead Packet ship was expected an 18 pounder gun was fired. In 1954 the
first of the all electric light vessels - Gannet - was placed on the station.
In November 1965 the
Round Trip
for a kayak - 3.5 to 4 hours
Inner part
The inner part of the bay, with its city and industrial surrounds, holds
little interest for sea kayakers, and is dealt with briefly. All the practical
embarkation points are considered. The outer parts of the inner part of the bay,
from Dun Laoghaire to
Tidal Overview
The tide floods N and ebbs S off the entrance to the bay, flooding from Dublin HW 0600 to HW, reaching 3.25 knots each way in springs. Inside the bay, the situation is more complex. Tides in the middle of the bay are stationary. The streams circulate around the edges. The effect of this is to constantly renew the waters of the bay which dissipates the worst polluting effects of the nearby population. Timings and strengths are very different on the two sides of the bay.
The flood enters the Bay through Muglins and Dalkey Sounds, past
Tides in the
north
In the northern part of
Tides in
The streams inside the harbour, under ordinary conditions, go with the rising and falling tide. Beware however heavy rainfall causing the river to flood. The overlying fresh water conditions favour short weak floods and long strong ebbs, and the outgoing stream can thus be very strong at the mouth, reaching 3.5 knots. This is typical of heavily freshwater-fed enclosed places.
Tides in the
south
In the southern part of
Coastline
Landing is possible all the way from the mouth of the Liffey to Sandycove,
except for regulated areas inside the busy ferry
From Sandycove at O257-281 to Sorrento Point at the S end of Dalkey Sound at O273-261, the ground is almost entirely small granite cliffs fronting impressive private property. Pretty, but landing is practical only at the three public harbours, Sandycove, Bullock and Coliemore.
Dublin Bay Embarkation Points
Sutton Sailing
Club
O265-377 Sheet 50
This is an embarkation point for the round of Howth Head. Even here at LW,
there is something of a carry, and the parking is very tight. So, if doing a
shuttle, leave vehicles at
O227-374 Sheet 50
N of Dublin Port is the
SPA
Golden Plover, Bar-tailed Godwit, Great Northern Diver, Little Egret, Peregrine, Merlin, Short-eared Owl.
The significance of the Bull for bird watchers is in the huge numbers and
the variety of species. It is popular because the birds may be easily watched.
Living close to buses, cars, golfers, joggers and even dogs, the birds do not
startle easily. In the channels, the rising tide concentrates the birds as it
pushes them up the shore, and they can be watched from very close range. The
Bull features prominently in the early stages of the education of all
The Bull has internationally important numbers of Brent Goose, Knot, and many other winter species. Most of the centre of the island is taken up with two golf courses, which are fenced off from the outer rim. Birders are found mostly on the mainland side, and swimmers favour the open beach on the outer side. Hares abound on the golf courses and are tolerated with equanimity by the golfers. There is an Interpretive Centre near the causeway. It probably owes its existence to its timing, as it was built shortly before planning permission became necessary.
Dollymount
Strand
O223-353 Sheet 50
Dollymount Strand runs the entire length of the outside of
Not a logical embarkation point for anywhere in particular, this putin point is nonetheless popular for the surf. As well as getting small playsurf, in gentle westerlies in particular, this is where surfers embark to surf the wake of the incoming car ferries. If the ferry is late and hasn’t slowed down to enter harbour (a regular occurrence), especially on lower tide levels, the second or third bow wave of the ferry can be large enough to run you all the way to the beach 1km away. Catch it just outside the North Bull Lighthouse. Not for novices.
Poolbeg
O214-336 Sheet 50
Should there be a reason to do so, embarkation is possible, with convenient
parking, from the very end of the road leading to the South Pier wall of
Merrion Gates
O197-311 Sheet 50
One would have to be desperate. Launching and landing is only possible at
HW. If so, this is the most convenient spot in terms of parking and launching
on the entire S city area. Park and access where the
Seapoint
O227-290 Sheet 50
A popular swimming spot and parking is under extreme pressure. Go down a
little culdesac called Brighton Vale, off
Salthill
O233-287 Sheet 50
There is a pleasant beach giving access directly to the open water. It is situated just outside the West Pier of Dun Laoghaire Harbour, reachable by road via the harbour. By car, cross the railway bridge closest to the West Pier at O240-290. Turn immediately left, leaving the railway to the left and the water to the right. Follow the twisting road to its end, 200m further along, under a barrier, at a spacious car park.
This sheltered beach never inflicts too long a carry. Windsurfers and beginner boaters of all kinds use it. Swimmers prefer Seapoint, 600m further E. For kayakers, it is favoured as the embarkation point for starting and ending longer journeys, as parking here never comes under pressure and the length of absence is of no matter. Furthermore, it is just outside the Salthill/Monkstown Dart station.
O239-290 Sheet 50
Tucked into the SW corner of
D.M.Y.C.
O236-289 Sheet 50
Alternatively, also inside the
Forty Foot
O257-282 Sheet 50
At Scotsman’s Bay, this W facing little harbour was once much used for the launching of rubber boats by scuba divers, but they ran into trouble with the authorities for their excessive enthusiasm. Now all speed craft are banned from using the slipway there, to the benefit of swimmers and others using the little cove. Kayakers should not attract attention to themselves as the rule may well be applied to all small boats. Be respectful of other water users, don’t do a lot of shouting, and don’t strap a big knife to your ankle.
Otherwise, this is a splendid, sheltered little harbour, mostly sand filled, with no boat carry at any stage of the tide. Parking is feasible except in heat waves or holiday times. The Forty Foot is at hand for a swim afterwards. Divers are barred there too, even on foot. This cove needs sustained N or NW winds before the sea gets lumpy.
O263-278 Sheet 50
Bullock has ample parking and easy launching at all stages of the tide,
although it is mucky on lower waters. It is the favoured put-in spot on all
Maiden Rock
O273-269 Sheet 50
An important Roseate Tern colony has been established on the rock, 500m NW of Dalkey Island. Please give a wide berth during the breeding season from April to July.
O273-265 Sheet 50
Parking is very restricted at this attractive little harbour on the
O277-263 Sheet 50
An interesting small grassy island, it has a
History
Vikings named it Dalk Eyja ("
The medieval church is dedicated to St.Begnet. The lintelled doorway is a feature of the period prior to the 12th Century. The bellcote high on the gable above is likely to have been added later, possibly in the 15th Century. The high side walls might also have been raised about then. The fireplace at the E end was added when the church was used as a residence by soldiers and masons in the early 19th Century.
The
The gun battery is built into the granite cliffs on the southern tip of the
island. While it is unimposing from the mainland, ships sailing into
Embarkation
Embark from
Landing
Landing is best at a little beach on the landward side of the NW corner, W
of the church. There is also a little cove just inside the nearby pier. The
beach here is usable except on the bottom third of the tide. A regular ferry
runs from
Tides
The tide runs strongly inside and outside
Outside the Muglins the main coastal stream turns at Dublin HW.
One stream of the main flood tide swings around Killiney Bay and divides with one part eddying through Dalkey Sound and Muglins Sound (hence the timing differential). The main part sweeps E out to sea past the southern tip of the island. Overfalls occur where the streams reconnect, just off Sorrento Point at O273-261.
Expect bigger overfalls on the flood tide at the southern tip of the island. These are particularly big with a S or SE swell. Paddlers prefer to circumnavigate anticlockwise, especially on the flood, to avoid being pushed up onto the rocks at this point. If in doubt about the conditions, have a look first from a safe distance at Sorrento Point. Following the coast of the island will ensure you are in the full flow before you see the overfalls. A decision to turn back at this stage will mean paddling against a 2-3kn flow.
The Muglins
O284-268 Sheet 50
Often visited in tandem with
O260-246 Sheet 50
Between
2km offshore at this northern end of the bay is the shallow Frazer Bank,
which has an enormous effect upon the flood tide. One branch of the tide flows
in a curve close along inshore and veers eastwards to meet the main tide
flooding northwards in the direction of
Bray
O276-179 Sheet 56
Bray is a large town and was once a satellite of
The River Dargle enters the sea through the harbour. It dries out at LW and
is not a particularly attractive embarkation point. The bottom of the harbour
is very silted. There is a slipway and beach in the harbour, which is usable on
the top two-thirds of the tide. There is another slipway on the outside of the
N pier. A
Bray Head
O286-170 Sheet 56
Bray Head is a mountain with twin peaks. The more northerly, 206m high peak has a prominent cross on top. The larger, 240m peak is to the S. At shore level, there are two roughly equivalent headlands, Bray Head at O286-170 and Cable Rock at O290-156. Cable Rock is a pronounced headland with an off-lying rock. There are large seabird colonies on the head in the breeding season.
Swell develops if there are sustained or strong winds from N, E or S, and gives difficult conditions all along the headland from the promenade in Bray to Cable Rock. The sea frequently breaks over Cable Rock, 80m off the headland. The tide flows strongly through the gap. Beware of a deeper rock, about 50m off the shore, which breaks the lower half of the tide in bad conditions. The sea state off Bray Head is almost always more severe than on the adjoining coast. Rogue waves are not unusual. This is not a place to go swimming, as the escape routes are tricky, the few storm beaches having dumping surf.
This whole 3km section is a fine paddle, very scenic, the slopes of Bray Head rising above, and the cliffs at the water’s edge a modest rock-climbing haven. Look for the climbing cliffs just N of the Cable Rock headland. They are identified by the metal spikes in the steep ground in the first 20m above HW where the railway tunnel opens.
There are three landable storm beaches on the head, but they are exposed and steep, or even missing, at HW. Above them runs the railway line, which was engineered out of the cliff with great difficulty in the mid 19th Century. The most convenient embarkation point in Bray is at the extreme S end of the promenade at O276-179, closest to the head.
Tides
From
Greystones
O296-128 Sheet 56
The beach inside the harbour is the easiest embarkation point for kayaks, at any point of the tide. Close nearby is a chip shop, ice cream, pub, and all small modern town facilities. The walk on the shore above the cliffs along here up Bray Head is lovely, as is the walking southwards along the shore.
Greystones to
Wicklow
O296-128 - T322-941 Sheet 56
For 20km S of Greystones, all the way to Wicklow, the coastline is uniformly
flat and boring when seen from the sea. The backdrop however is the Wicklow
Hills, known as the
SPA
Bewick and Whooper Swan, Little Tern, Golden Plover, Bar-tailed Godwit.
1km of rocky coastline S from the harbour, the town ends and the
More to the naturalists’ taste, there are two eco-systems in one, fresh water and salt water, side by side. The two are wonderfully different, and the subject of much study as to their comparable flora and fauna. Barry O’Flynn of nearby Kilcoole carried out the first study in 1973.
About 3km further S is Six Mile Point at O318-038, the most easterly point on the route. In summer, there is a colony of Little Tern, which nest in the gravel, and are so splendidly camouflaged that it is truly inconsiderate to walk on the beach hereabouts at all. It is a Birdwatch Ireland reserve but only well marked from the land. Please therefore be careful if landing.
Camping
Pleasantly camp just about anywhere. Indeed this is probably the first grassy camping S of Dublin.
Tides
From
T322-941 Sheet 56
Wicklow is a major town, where just about everything may be acquired.
Embarkation
Broad Lough
The
SPA
Little Egret, Hen Harrier, Peregrine, Merlin, Ruff, Bar-tailed Godwit, Kingfisher.
Wicklow Head
T235-924 Sheet 56
Wicklow Head is a serious attraction to E coast paddlers in search of truly powerful sea forces in a fullblooded open water environment, yet with sanctuary nearby. On the head is a huge lighthouse, amongst the most powerful on the East coast. There are cliffs and caves on both sides. There is a pronounced eddy system either side of the head itself, and guaranteed playtime except for the shortest of slacks. On passage, err with caution to get past efficiently, as this is undoubtedly one of the most significant headlands of the southern part of the E coast.
Tides
At Wicklow Head, the N going flood starts earlier than on the Dublin/North Wicklow coast further N. The flood tide runs from Dublin HW +0345 to 0115 approximately. Downstream, expect long powerful run-offs. It is always possible to rest in eddies in the lee of the head, except when the wind is from the eastern quadrant.
Inshore tides all along the Wicklow and Wexford coasts generally follow the direction of the coast, and information on timing is unreliable. From Wicklow Head to Arklow, the flood is thought to run up to 3 knots in springs and the ebb at 1 knot.
Off Wicklow Head itself where big boats go, the flood is up to 4 knots, and the ebb 3 knots, but close by the rocks where kayaks go, the current gets seriously fast. Local paddlers say 6 knots, both ways. Bride’s Head at T339-931 is 1km N of Wicklow Head, and on the ebb, the flow can be almost as strong there.
From
Going S, on the other side of Wicklow Head, keep in the main flow as long as you can. A weaker eddy system operates, almost as far as Long Rock at Silver Strand at T338-910.
Embarkation
Access to the head is usually from Wicklow town as described above, but if a launching from S is preferred, there are several awkward choices. Public access is always available from Brittas Bay, but this is 10km to the S. Closer access points involve an awkward carry down steep steps to a beach. Magheramore beach at T330-884 is loved by surfers, especially on a low tide with a sustained wind from the S/SSE. Access by car is now disputed, though available, but please close the entrance gate at T324-886. The access at Silver Strand at T337-911 is the most reliable, at least in summer, and closest. The road access at T336-914 is through the more northerly of two paying caravan parks above the beach. It involves a cruelly steep carry down long steps and a (seemingly) much longer carry back up later. Camping is possible and the surroundings are pleasant. This is a famous fishing spot, and there is friendly surf on the beach for playing in. It may be closed in wintertime.
SPA
Peregrine, Merlin.
The
Tuskar Rock
T227-072 Sheet 77
Landing
The steps at the small quay on the ENE side are probably the best landing. There is a narrow channel behind the quay but it surges. There are steps on the WNW side, should sea conditions allow. There are possible exposed landings at the S, and some shelving slabs on the N side, either of which might work.
Fauna
The island has an impressive list of recorded bird species, largely
documented by R. M. Barrington (1900). Successive light keepers assembled the
records from detailed recording in the 1800s. The island is a magnet for
migrant birds due to its strategic position as the main entry and exit point
from
Tides and Trip
Planning
The trip planning requires thought. The tides run at over 3 knots in the main channel on springs (see details later). A straight out-and-back ferry glide may be impractical. A slingshot approach is recommended, (setting off upstream of the rock so that the tidal stream carries you onto it). There is no suitable launching place to the SW. Anyway, the tide sets over a dangerous shallow area halfway out on that side. This area is called The Bailies (T177-060), a long, thin, N/S strip, which should be avoided.
The option of coming from the N avoids The Bailies, and means catching the
last of the S going stream. The S going stream starts at Dublin HW -0230 and
ends at Dublin HW +0430, so aim to be on the rock at the latter time. Launch 90
minutes before from the beach at T140-123 at the back (i.e. SE) of
Dangers
(a) Local paddlers report that the tide running past Greenore Point (as the tired paddler returns to land from the sea) can be the strongest encountered in the area. There is a report of a party seeing a lobster pot in this area, in mist, 1 or 2km out. Having decided to check the direction and speed of the current, they could not make it upstream to the pot! Consider that any slippage here shovels the paddler into the busiest part of the main shipping channel, and the need for care cannot be exaggerated.
(b) It is important to note that the shipping channel to
History
The lighthouse was constructed in 1815 with 11 men losing their lives during construction. 10 were drowned when an October storm swept them away, leaving a further 14 hanging onto the rock for 3 days, one of whom died of his injuries later. It was also a dangerous place to be during World War 2, a light-keeper lost his life and a second was injured when a drifting mine exploded against the rock.
The Saltees
Sheet 77
Embarkation
Mainland launching is from the convenient, sheltered, pebbly beach immediately behind the W pier at Kilmore Quay. The beach is tucked in between the pier and Crossfarnoge (or Forlorn) Point at S965-032. Parking is generously available.
Parking is more limited at or near the harbour itself. Launching is possible off the slipway, but there is a per boat charge, rigorously policed. The beach on the E side of the harbour extends out a long way at LW, so is inadvisable.
Dangers
The main local trouble spot is an underwater bridge, very shallow, called Saint Patrick’s Bridge. It starts 500m E of Kilmore Quay pier, and reaches out, in a crescent shape, all the way to Little Saltee. It is particularly troublesome on the E going tide. Boats not travelling fast enough, or not laying off enough, will be pulled down onto the bridge, where rough and accelerated water is hard to escape. This happens almost immediately after leaving the harbour. If caught, it is best to ferry glide in behind Little Saltee. 3.5 knots is achieved in springs.
Saltee Sound, between the two islands, is another trouble spot.
SPA
Peregrine, Chough.
Tides
Trip planning requires care for the strong tidal streams, the timings of which do tend to catch out the unwary.
Tidal streams change about three to five hours behind local HW and LW. Local kayakers strongly disagree on the timings, giving times varying by up to 2 hours. It may well be that timings vary considerably with wind conditions, and whether there are springs or neaps occurring. One thing all local kayakers agree on is that on leaving the harbour area, you always look at one of the many lobster pot buoys to check that you have your calculations right.
Local HW is about the same as Cobh (actually
Local paddlers say this cycle begins an hour or even two ahead of that. If so, the E making flood tide begins at Cobh HW -0230 or so. They say that slacks occur when the tide is halfway up or down the harbour wall. If it is halfway up and rising, the E making flood is about to start. If it is half way down and falling, the W making ebb is imminent.
Avoid the crossing on the strongest of the E making tide, especially if
there are any slow-boats in the party, for fear of Saint Patrick’s Bridge.
Avoid also the strongest of the W making tide to avoid the run off over
Little
X966-996 Sheet 77
This island is less frequented than its better-known and more interesting neighbour. Historically, 3 people or so lived on Little Saltee until the mid-19th Century, when rumour insists it was connected to the mainland. Little Saltee was farmed until World War 2. The farm speciality was early-season new potatoes, but corn and other vegetables were also grown. 12 people were needed at harvest time. A thresher was brought over, in parts, in small boats. The island was abandoned and overgrown until recently.
Since 1999, the owners now farm pedigree cows, sheep, and fallow deer. Soon there may be rare Soay sheep, from the Scottish island of same name, just S of Skye.
The main house and some of its outbuildings have been made habitable. The courtyard has been tidied. There is a fine ruin of a two-storey barn and interesting remains of corn stands in the yard immediately W of the main building. There are the remains of an old well within the courtyard but it did not hold water in April 2003 and appeared long disused.
Landing
A flagpole above the main landing on the NW side at X966-996 presumably indicates when the family is in residence. Landing is possible among boulders below the house, normally reasonably sheltered by offshore boulders and rocks. One may also land elsewhere less dependably. Try the SW side on any of three storm beaches facing the Great Saltee. These are very much easier on lower tide levels.
Camping
The most suitable level ground for camping is in the area just W of the main house. Bracken and bluebells dominate the island and there are few grassy areas along the flatter western side. The vegetation is broken, lumpy and heavily grazed. The most pleasant areas are on the southern edge overlooking the storm beaches and the sound to Great Saltee. Do ask permission if the owners are in residence.
X952-974 Sheet 77
This is a beautiful island. Grazed and easily walked or camped on, this island is lovely and deservedly popular with Irish paddlers.
The island is a famed bird-watching spot, and is often inhabited by birding visitors in season, mainly spring and autumn. Once inhabited by 20 people, the island became uninhabited relatively early by Irish island standards. There are monuments and references to Prince Michael of Saltee on the island. He bought the island in 1943, crowned himself Prince in 1972, and died in 1998.
Renewed interest in the island by his extended family has resulted in some of the scrub being removed around the remains of the old rick yard and the corn stands are more clearly visible.
Landing
Land at X952-974 on the N side, E of the middle. The main landing area has recently been improved with a channel having been cleared through the boulder beach, which in June 2003 gave a welcome sandy strip even at the lower stages of the tide. There are steps above to a house in trees. This landing is sheltered in most conditions.
Camping
Camping is not permitted on Great Saltee when inhabited by the owners.
Predictably, members of the family are almost certainly in residence in August, long weekends, or periods of settled good weather. The tradition of flying the Prince of Saltee flag from the flagpole above the landing when the family are in residence has been renewed. There are several new signs at the landing point regarding the terms by which people will be tolerated at all on such occasions. No camping is permitted at these times and day-trippers must vacate the island by 1630 hrs.
If camping while an island is unoccupied, it is critical to behave responsibly. Do not upset or disturb stock and keep away from private places.
Having said all that, the camping is excellent. There is water in a well at the house, but like all wells, it thrives with use and goes off otherwise. It looked very good in June 2003. There is also a bothy to the rear of the house, which saves camping, and is freely available with the usual bothy rules. Again, it is only available when the family are not about the place.
Circumnavigation
Circumnavigation gives good fun in tidal races off the appropriate points, but beware that there is much eddying. There is excellent cliff scenery, and a particularly pretty channel just E of the S tip. Sea conditions at the southern tip become fearsome in strong winds or with wind against tide.
S866-059 Sheet 77
These two islets lie in
Landing is awkwardly practical at the N tip of each island, on either side of a projecting spit. On the bigger, northern island, there is an easy beachlet in a cut at the SW, facing the smaller island. Approach from the beach at Cullenstown at S869-077, 2km to the NNE.
Stay away in spring and early summer, as nests are too numerous to avoid. The ruin on the larger island was built in 1800 for survivors of shipwrecks, but is now dilapidated. There is still a sealed box inside with what looks like electricity going into it, suggesting a phone?
SPA
Arctic Tern.
Hook Head
X733-973 Sheet 76
Hook Head is a popular kayaking and scuba diving area based
on the main town Fethard. A very
attractive area, there is almost always sheltered sea-going hereabouts, almost regardless
of wind direction. Beloved of divers,
there is always calm water somewhere for the training of beginners. Out at the
Head there are arches and blowholes, caves and wrecks, and clear shallow water
mostly. The extensive sand beaches at
Duncannon and Fethard contrast with the rocky cliffs by the Head itself. Across
Early History
The early history of the Hook mirrors the early history of
Modern History
The story of Duncannon Fort reflects more recent Irish
history. The
Tides locally
are complicated
Local HW / LW hereabouts are the same as Cobh, though obviously this is
later up the Waterford Harbour Estuary, in fact +0100 at
The E side of the Hook has no significant tidal movement, though there seems always to be clapotis off Baginbun Head S803-030.
In the estuary of
·
The flood in the main channel runs from Cobh
-0425 to +0045 and ebbs from
· The ingoing flood, as far as Credaun Head, is strong along the W side, during which there may be slack or even a weak outgoing flow on the E side.
· Squeezing past Credaun Head itself, the floood reaches 2.5kn or 3.0kn.
· The outgoing ebb, between Duncannon and Hook Head, sets mainly along the E side, and gets very strong along the W shore of the Hook.
· The tail end of the outgoing ebb eddies at Credaun Head, as far as Portally Head 6km SW.
Outside, beyond the mouth of the estuary, the main E going stream floods
from
At Hook Head itself, the “Tower Race” sets up on the ebb. It starts at the point and extends seaward for 2 / 3km. Its workings are very complicated, perhaps especially when the estuary is emptying into an oncoming ebb, with wind over. The combined tides set up a rotary eddy system, so the resulting direction of the run off at the Head varies enormously. These very powerful hydraulics should be avoided in adverse conditions.
Camping
There is an official legal campsite at Ocean Island Caravan & Camping S790-058, about 400m N of Fethard village. It welcomes visitors, but is primarily family based. Campervanning is popular down by the Hook itself, and camping sauvage is possible on the E and W sides of the Head, discreetly. There are also quiet but exposed spots above Baginbun Beach S800-033 and above Petit’s Bay S795-031.
Birdlife
The best spots are at the Head itself for the sea-watching, Fethard Salt Marsh ESE of the village, and Bannow Estuary 3km NNE of the village. Most common species include Oyster Cather, Gannet, Chough, Fulmar, Kittiwake, Guillemot, Razorbill, Skylark, Great Black Backed Gull, Cormorant, Shag, Curlew and Grey Heron.
Hook Embarkation Points
S802-058 Sheet 76
A popular extensive beach 1km off the main street of Fethard, the local beach. Exposed to easterlies. Parking is on the roadside above the beach and is at a premium on hot days. Especially at LW the carry down the path and beach to the water can be gruelling. There are houses all along the roadway so do park considerately.
Fethard
Quay
S807-052 Sheet 76
Sheltered by Ingard Point, this slipway is the logical local put in point for any group of kayakers heading to sea. The parking is tight here but manageable and with care the locals will not be inconvenienced. Sheltered from all wind directions save the N.
S802-034 Sheet 76
The
Petit’s
Bay
S796-032 Sheet 76
Called
S766-016 Sheet 76
Halfway between Baginbun Head and Slade village, an obvious rest spot. Parking is tolerable. Surfs in SE winds.
X747-985 Sheet 76
This pretty village is the start or finish of surely one of
the best one hour perambulations in
The parking is easy and launching is from the slipway, but the inner harbour dries at LW.
Doornogue
Point
X732-981 Sheet 76
1km N of Hook Head the parking is easy. Launch from a small gravel beach, but swell may dictate otherwise. Spectacular blowholes hereabouts at HW.
Loftus
Hall
X738-994 Sheet 76
2km NNE of Hook Head on the W (estuary) side, a sandy beach, locally called "Boyces Bay", well sheltered, with no public access, under the impressive Loftus Hall, once a nunnery, one huge square old building dominating the vuiew as one drives the Hook.
S754-010 Sheet 76
4km NNE of Hook Head, a sandy beach. It has a large seawall protecting the farm /
houses above and a rough track with public access from the main
S754-030 Sheet 76
Just W of the popular Templetown Inn, a pub-grub establishment, there is no access from the roadside but there is a good sandy beach.
Dollar /
Booley Bays
S750-055 Sheet 76
Actually both beaches are one beach at LW.
The passing of Broomhill Point S744-049 is a pleasure. The cliffs to southward are high and cut with fissures worthy of the west coast. This is probably the most impressive part of the entire round of the Hook.
There is limited parking at either beach. Dollar is a bit the easier. Both are beautiful.
S730-080 Sheet 76
This magnificent beach is over 1km long, and flat, a favourite for kite surfing and such activities. Park above the beach, or for the lazy, drive onto the beach and unload. No matter how lazy, do not leave a car here. The tide does return.
Beware also that the shipping lanes in the estuary hereabouts are tight into this side. They run strongest immediately off the headland just NW the beach, on which is perched Duncannon Fort. This means the really big boats pass very close by, and the flow is strongest just offshore. With wind over, it can fairly kick up.
S727-083 Sheet 76
Launch from the public boat slip. Parking is convenient, but please do not block access to the pier.
Arthurstown
Quay
S716-103 Sheet 76
Not recommended. Small harbour that dries out to leave a barrier of glutinous river mud.
Ballyhack
Quay
S705-109 Sheet 76
Beware the ferry, and also the other large ships. This is this narrowest part of the estuary. Launch from the shingle beach S of the pier for better shelter. The parking is better too.
Tramore to Stradbally
S060-007 to X370-969 Sheet 76/82
Tramore town, beach and dune system is rightly known widely for many reasons. The dune system with its back starnd is a wonderful natural area, the beach is a surfer’s paradise, and the town has every amusement known to the holiday maker.
West of Tramore to at least Stradbally lies a particularly interesting stretch of coast that is very varied and interesting, comprising sea cliffs, groups of stacks, caves, arches and storm beaches that provide much visual interest. There is much to explore, and the geology is notable. The rock is mostly red sandstone or conglomerate, and the coast has a history of mining for copper in the 1800’s. Some of the ventilation shafts are visible from the sea. The islands for the most part are steep and precipitous sea stacks with landings only onto rock shelves. The challenge is to summit and many require a party with some rock climbing experience. The shore as far as Stradbally is dealt with here cove by cove and island by island, always heading westwards. The term “sheltered” may not always include for southerlies straight onshore, and common sense should be employed.
A truly stunning place with magnificent views, particularly
westwards to
X536-979 Sheet 76
A magnificent twin peaked island reminiscent of North Mayo at its best.. It is detached from the mainland only at HW. Both halves of Shhep bear more arches and through caves per square metre than any other Irish island. The view of any of its offlying stacks through one of its arches is second to none. The island is prominent for long distances E and W. Summiting is probably very difficult everywhere and very dangerous, the more so the inner half.
Several soft landings.
Fine stony beach with reasonable shelter and good parking.
Burke’s
X525-997 Sheet 76
A beautiful steep island among many reefs and offlyers. It is climbable with care on the NW or SE sides. A lovely slot / cave twists through the SW corner. Cormorant and gulls roost and breed on the flat summit.
Annestown X500-987 Sheet82
Lovely sheltered part sandy beach just inside Brown’s
Boat
A busy working pier with a delightful beach and leisure area combined. Very sheltered. The parking deficit suggests small parties only.
Killmurrin
Cove X466-987 Sheet 82
A sheltered sandy beach with plenty of parking and a reasonable carry.
Bunmahon X432-987 Sheet 82
A fine sheltered pebble beach. Parking for a dozen cars with concrete slip at W end of town, just as the main street turns sharply up and N.
X428-980 Sheet 82
Land in a small cut in the NE corner. Imposing “Buachal” type steep, rocky sea stack with narrow grassy ridge to attractive summit. Best climbed from seaward side by contouring around from landing or direct from seaward side if conditions allow. Not climbed in April 2005 but may have been previously. This is one of a number of stacks in close proximity separated by narrow channels. Attractive storm beaches and cliff scenery close by.
Breeding Cormorant, Herring and Great Black Backed Gull in April 2005.
Templebrick
X420-975 Sheet 82
Another fine imposing unsummitable stack, the largest hereabouts, with landing pro forma only, midway to Ballydowane, at the most prominent part of this cliff.
X413-975 Sheet 82
Another imposing steep rocky sea-stack amongst a network of the like. A lovely sea-arch cuts through its centre, passable by sea kayak at most stages of the tide. A landing is possible on the landward N side of a reef jutting E from the NE corner. Its summit awaits rock climbers of merit. It dominates the view E from Ballydowane.
A lovely pebble beach with ample parking and good shelter, surrounded by steep cliffs. One part looks like good (but very hard) rock climbing on clean sandstone. The views left and right of needles, stacks and islands are lovely.
Ballyvoony X383-974 Sheet 82
The coast road swings right past this sheltered stormbeach with its orderly picnic tables and fine views.
X380-967 Sheet 82
Noticeably different to the other such islands along this coast, this Gull has a nearly flat-topped or at least more rounded appearance. The sides are steep but not of any serious gradient. Landing is in a small cut on the NE corner onto slippery kelp covered rocks at LW. Progress to the summit lies along an obvious fault line. Grassy on top with lots of evidence of breeding Gulls. A Cormorant colony of c.40 pairs on SW and W sides. The S / SW / W are steep and rocky. Several Sheet 82 smaller sea stacks and rocky outliers lieing off the S side allow for playful passage through the channels. Purely a way-stop for the curious as the beaches hereabouts are much easier of landing. No water. Good panorama of the coast from the summit.
Stradbally
Cove X371-970 Sheet 82
Lying below the town, there is good parking and very sheltered launching, though a long carry at LW.
Helvick Head - Ceann
Heilbhic
Helvick Head is a lovely spot, a noted holiday area. There is the ‘new’ pier
at Helvick at X313-892 - Cé Heilbhic,
just inside the head. This is a busy working trawler harbour. The ‘old’ pier is
at Ballynagaul at X299-888- Baile na Gall, now quite silted. This is
a noted small Gaelteacht area. The Clancy Brothers first made their musical
name here. They emerged in the early 1960s to inject pride in English speaking
Irish Ireland. The area as a whole is called Ring or An Rinn. The name probably derives from the mighty dune system guarding
the inner bay called locally the Cunnigar - An
Coinigéar.
Rock climbing
Helvick is a noted rock climbing spot. The cliff is about 1.5km SW of the gap between Helvick Head and The Gainers. The crag is immediately underneath and is accessed from the noted viewpoint and car park at X307-882. The rock is an isolated pocket of purple mudstone with some sandstone. This is said to be much better than pure red sandstone. It is solid, and takes good gear. The rock nearer to the head looks good from below, but is awkward to access from above, and may not be as good, being sandstone. Enquiries to Gerry Moss germoss@eircom.net.
SPA
Peregrine, Chough.
The Gainers
X319-893 Sheet 82
Known locally as
Landing and
Embarkation
Land in or about the gap itself onto sheltered rocks.
Embark from the ‘new’ pier at Helvick at X313-892 - Cé Heilbhic where there is easy parking and launching beside the RNLI station inside the harbour. Toilets and water are available.
Round of Mine
Head
Helvick is also the popular launching or landing spot at the E end of the
round of Mine Head - Mionn Árd.
Launch at the W end of this trip at a sheltered beach, either at
Tidal Overview
-
Tides are generally weak between
X100-700 Sheet 81
This attractive, 37m high island is just off Knockadoon Head, which
separates
Embarkation
There is a pier and slipway at X092-703 for embarkation at Knockadoon Head where there are two well-sheltered beaches. The only water hereabouts is at houses and the local Dominican summer school camp, and the nearest shops and facilities are at Ballymacoda, 5km to the W.
Landing
A low headland projects NW from mid-NW side of the island. There are beaches at either side of the base of this headland. The beach to the SW side (on a direct line between Knockadoon Pier and the tower on the island) does not exist at HW and is more exposed, but access to the interior is easier. The beach to the NE side does not exist at HW and access to the interior is scramblier. At HW, a deep-water landing may be had onto rocks on the sheltered cove E of this headland.
Tides
Local HW/LW is as
The coastline westward to the beach at Ballymakeagh at X050-688 is very
pleasant, and there are great views eastwards to
Knockadoon Head was the fastest developing rock climbing crag in
There are two contrasting islands lying just off the coast from Ballycotton
village in
Embarkation
Embarkation is best from a small slipway at the village where there is a small field in which to park, and a very easy gradient yielding a short carry of 50100m maximum. This is about 1km WNW of the harbour, opposite the Garda barracks. It is reached by a laneway beside a shop at W989-643. There is water available here and also at the harbour from public taps. Ballycotton has good facilities, B&Bs, pubs and restaurants. The harbour itself is slightly further E at W999-637. Launching is difficult, but is possible from either of two slipways reached by narrow, steep alleyways. Descent to the beach is also possible behind the toilets on the main pier. In addition, there are steep, narrow steps halfway down the outside (E) of the pier which gives awkward access to a small beach. The W pier of the harbour is little more than a breakwater.
Tides
In Ballycotton Sound and between the inner island and the coast, 2 knots is achieved,. Slack water is thought by local paddlers to be much as for LW/HW Cork.
X004-637 Sheet 81
Known locally (quite logically) as the
X011-637 Sheet 81
Known locally as the
SPA
(Parts only) Bewick & Whooper Swan, Golden Plover, Bar-tailed Godwit, Common Tern.
Tides
Cobh is a standard port for tidal information for most of the S/SW of
There are exceptions:
·
The current is
always weak at about the Spit Bank just 1km off
·
At the harbour
mouth, the ebb runs SE from Ram’s Head W811-619 towards Roches Point W824-601
and then SW, so that even the largest vessels are swept towards
·
In reverse, much
the same, the stream sets into
·
The strength of
the tide is raised by S wind and especially SE wind (for a longer stronger
flood). An increase of up to 1m has been
known in
·
The strength of
the tide is cut by N winds (for a weaker shorter flood), and by fresh water in
the rivers in quantity (for a longer stronger ebb).
At or about LW and the
beginning of the flood
·
At the harbour
mouth, the main flood stream makes into the harbour at first on the W side past
·
The stream in
·
If there is fresh
water flowing in the
·
From Ram’s Head
W811-619 the ingoing salt water stream branches – part goes up the Owenboy
River in the direction of Carrigaline W740-625, - and the main stream goes N,
almost immediately dividing into two streams, one W of Cobh towards Cork and
the other towards the E channel of Great Island.
·
Because at this
stage fresh water is still flowing outwards from the E channel of
·
The flood is felt
at Paddy’s Point W795-647 fully -0030 anywhere else in the harbour. For a considerable time before any change in
midstream, the flood sets close inshore past this point, Ringaskiddy W777-648
and as far as Monkstown W771-661 and sometimes further. This is apparently because in mid-channel, an
undercurrent sets before the surface current makes.
·
The ingoing W
flood stream does not make at
·
The length and
strength of the tide from Cobh up to
At or about HW at the
beginning of the ebb
·
The outgoing stream
E of Great Island begins -0100, and continues along the E side of the harbour
past Corkbeg Island W827-637
·
The stream out of
the Owenboy river begins -0100
·
If there is much
freshwater in the river Lee, there is a strong E ebb close inshore past
W805-665 Sheet 87 / Sheet 81
This island is unique amongst Irish islands in having a large town,
The island has a long history of human settlement dating back to the Phoenicians, but owes much of its development to its fine natural harbour. Its naval importance and its use as a port for transatlantic liners has left the town with a long nautical association. Much of the town’s fine architecture dates from the early 1800’s.
Historic attractions include a fine cathedral, Cobh Heritage Centre and Old
Church Graveyard, where many of the victims of the
Circumnavigation
Embarkation for a circumnavigation is recommended from White Point at
W786-658 or alternatively at any of several slipways in
Tides
Tidal flows in the river gorges (W and E sides) run to 3 knots in springs but these can be utilised to advantage in the timing of one’s passage. The critical factors in a circumnavigation are (a) to pass close enough to HW where the tides meet, which is under Belvelly Bridge W791-707, and (b) to clear Rosslague Point at W800-703 just to its E before the ebb exposes the mudflats.
A trip in spring/autumn/winter is best from a natural history point of view
as both Lough Mahon to the NW and the
The western river passage is a busy shipping lane to
Camping
Camping is possible and quite pleasant from Ashgrove at W860-696 at the NE point, to East Ferry, to Morlogue Point at W852-672 at the SE point. Water is not available but the area is pleasantly wooded and there are several grassy fields that are quite remote.
The eastern river passage down to East Ferry is quite scenic and one has a
choice of two hostelries for lunch. The Morlogue Inn at W853-683 is situated on
the
Once around Morlogue Point at W852-672, passage is westward towards
W789-655 Sheet 87
A small island located just S of Cobh town in
Landing
Landing is not encouraged but is possible at several slipways on the
southern side and in the
Tides
The main river channel from Cork City and the ferry port at Ringaskiddy flows through a narrow passage between Haulbowline and White Point on Great Island just NW. The tidal flow achieves 2 knots at this point. The main tidal flow splits at Haulbowline with the much lesser flow running along the southern side of the island.
Future
Ambitious plans for cleaning up and developing the whole island to a
standard to rival
Rocky
W793-650 Sheet 87
High rocky and fortified, the summit is a big tent shaped rock in the middle. Its triple ramparts and central citadel were a gunpowder store from 1808. The outer trenches were lit by candles recessed into hollows in the wall for safety. Unoccupied 1920s to 1964, Irish Steel built the bridge when it took over, and it was storage until 2001.
Rocky is always landable because the bridge supports give shelter, especially on the landward Ringaskiddy side where the rocks are shelving.
W805-645 Sheet 87 / Sheet 81
This island is located very close to the centre of
The island’s history is largely military because of its strategic position
and the importance of
On the N side facing
Tides
The Spit Bank lies off the island’s northern shore and is marked at its NE edge by the Spit Bank lighthouse at W812-658. Tidal flow on the bank is less than in the main harbour channels and may be useful to kayakers travelling up or down river against the flow.
Landing
Traditionally, landings have not been encouraged. The military had sentries posted at all points to deny access. However, this practice has been relaxed in recent years and kayakers remaining away from the main fort area have not been challenged.
Tidal Overview
-
Off the coast from Fastnet to
W689-470 Sheet 87
Situated outside the bay called Oysterhaven. No obvious embarkation point. Basically, these are two rocky outcrops of islands only accessible during the most benign of weather and have "interesting" scrambling potential. They are separated by a fine creek, in width about the length of a small boat. In places the ascent requires pure rock climbing up attractive corner features. Lovely when accessible, definitely a place to tarry a while.
W640-472 Sheet 87
Herring Gull breed here. There is a suspicion that rodents do too.
Landing and
Embarkation
Embark from a slip at W637-473 to the NW of the island. The trip is about 200m. Good parking. Landing is directly opposite at the W end of the island onto sand or shingle. The sound will always be sheltered but may have nice clean surf waves as the swells from one side meet the tide from the other.
Old Head of
Kinsale
W625-406 Sheet 87
This mighty headland extends 7km out to sea, W of Cork Harbour. Magnificent and rocky, it ‘boasts’ a golf course over the entirety of its outer parts, denying pedestrian public access over much of its amenity. This is said to be the finest, and certainly is among the most expensive golf courses in the world, to which the very rich, mainly American break-takers, fly in especially. A major battle has been conducted in the courts and on the ground between the competing interests of entrepreneurial private property on the one hand and the Keep Ireland Open spirit on the other. It is claimed that a traditional right of way existed historically, but this is denied. Both sides seem to accept that casual strollers cannot co-exist with golfers, and no compromise is thought possible by either camp. There was a rock-climbing crag at the head itself, now disused.
The grid reference given is for a narrow neck halfway out, to the E and W of
which are
Cliffy and gorgeous, do not readily pass by without a visit.
Embarkation
Put in at either the muddy beach just NW of a pier on the E side at W619-434 or at a sandy beach backed by an hotel on the W side at W610-430. Either way the shuttle is only about 2km, easily walkable.
Tides
Expect clapotis on the windward/uptide side. When the flow is at full strength, major eddies set up on the downstream side of the head. Thus, the flow is always southwards on both sides close in. These collide with the mainstream at the head, so expect a race off the tip of the head itself and a little downstream. It is reported that when winds are calm enough or from other than the southern quadrant, the mainstream race stays off the tip itself, somewhat out to sea, so that kayaks may scrape through inside. The flood is eastwards from HW Cobh -0420 to +0205 and reaches 2.5 knots in springs.
SPA
Peregrine, Chough.
Tides are very weak inside this
Adam’s
W237-326 Sheet 89
This 28m high island lies in the mouth of
Eve’s
W230-335 Sheet 89
An 8m high, waterless, grassy rock inside
Stack of Beans
W228-314 Sheet 89
1km WSW of the headland on the W side of Glandore Harbour, and 1km E of Squince Harbour lies a group of islands the smallest of which is this stack. Named for its parabolic appearance viewed from the N, it looks like y=x2 inverted. Landing is usually easy on the N side and climbing to the top is safe and easy. The views W take the breath away.
Rabbit Island
East
W227-314 Sheet 89
Really a pair of giant stacks detached from
W223-315 Sheet 89
This pleasant, formerly inhabited island is the mainstay of this group and very much worthy of a camping stopover. The best landing place is halfway along the N coast, on a sheltered pebble beach under a ruined house. There is sheltered camping beside the house, but no water was found.
The island is waisted N/S at this point, and camping may also be had on the other, S side of the waist, also from a pebble beach, for that ‘oceanic feel’. Land also at any number of other pebble beaches on this much-fragmented, attractive island, which is well worth pottering around, on foot or afloat.
This island is privately owned (1997) by an owner who would prefer exclusive use of the S facing beach referred to above at W222-314 for picnics and boat, but otherwise would allow well behaved visitors to use the rest of the island in passing.
There are wild horses, burrows, Chough and Linnet on the island. Otter were seen on the W side and at the Stack of Beans on the E side.
W220-297 Sheet 89
2.5km SSW of the headland on the W side of
W217-298 Sheet 89
W178-290 Sheet 89
Located S of Castlehaven and Castletownshend and tucked in against the shore, the island is grazed to the summit. It has a tower, splendid views, and while no animals were seen, it appears to be grazed by sheep. The landing is in Flea Sound on the N side of the island.
The Stags of
Toe Head
W150-246 Sheet 89
These rocks are 1.5km or so directly off Toe Head. They present one
amorphous blob from the N, but from the E or W side they present their true
character, which is three tall parallel reefs separated by creeks. The centre
creek dries at low tides, giving the better chance of a landing as there are
baylets on either side, to be chosen according to wind direction. There is no
water; this is just a very exposed waystop. Nesting auks and gulls. Note
especially the flag marker SW of the rocks, marking the ‘other end’ of the
wreck of the ‘
Tides
Tides run strongly in Stag Sound, between the Stags and Toe Head, achieving
22.5 knots in springs, when a sustained W wind will extend the flood and
weaken the ebb. Generally, the flood runs from HW Cork 0435 to +0150. Local
HW/LW are about half an hour ahead of
Lough Hyne
Lough Hyne, an inland saltwater lake, is
The lough is a pretty place, surrounded by hills covered by deciduous forests. The easiest launch, and most convenient car parking, is at a slipway on the N shore. There is camping at the pier on the W shore for the waterborne passerby.
The interest of the lough to scientists lies in its deep, tidal, salt water
in a controlled environment. Academics from universities all over
It is much loved by divers, as depths of 45m can be had with good visibility close to the shore in a sheltered environment, although any disturbance of the silty bottom soon puts an end to the visibility. The necessary authorisation/permit may be had locally.
Typically of such a formation, the outgoing stream continues long after the
tide outside has started to rise; the same happens in reverse although it is
less pronounced. HW/LW outside the lough are about half an hour ahead of
W097-284 Sheet 89
W103-276 Sheet 89
Just downstream and E of the rapids of the famous Lough Hyne, this steep wooded island is joined to the mainland to the N by a spit, which is only covered at the highest tides, and on either side of which one may land. There is no camping and a steep track leads up into the dense woods where marine scientists have a shack for their observations of the special marine world locally. There are caves in the SW of the island.
W066-243 Sheet 88
A rocky islet lying about 3km E of the southern entrance to Baltimore Harbour, there is no easy landing, but there is a sheltered (from westerlies) inlet in the NW with reported rich flora and fauna (seals).
From Sherkin and
A feature of virtually all the islands, caused by their sandstone geology, is ‘waisting’. Waists are narrow points where the islands are almost cut in two, and sometimes three, by the sea. Indeed, they may soon be. These waists are heavily relied on in the text for locational descriptions. -Beaches or landing points, and other places, are often located by reference to the waist. This waisting is not always obvious from a casual glance at the halfinch OS map, but the modern OS 1:50,000, sheet 88 does much better.
Embarkation
The many islands of the bay are reached from the pretty towns of
Tides
The big picture is that the flood flows E from Mizen Head through the
islands of the bay, and outside
This is particularly true of Gascanane Sound, between Sherkin and
Important and predictable exceptions occur. The flood streams N through the
sound between Long Island and
W028-257 Sheet 88
Population 90.
Embarkation
and Landing
The pier in
Camping
Prominent, ivy-clad O’Driscoll Castle stands 300m N of the pier. Below the castle is a very steep slipway, and above the castle is the hotel. The best camping is above the slipway. It is best to ask in the hotel. There is another water tap just outside the hotel and below ‘The Jolly Roger’ pub.
Circumnavigation
The Globe Rocks, awash at LW, are just N of the pier. The sound at the NW of
the island between it and
Dock Pier is just W of the N entrance to The Sound, in a safe,
well-sheltered ENE-facing cove at W023-273. Along the whole N side of the
island, beware of the
The very sheltered
W of the entrance to
Cow
3-400m S of Cow Strand is Priest’s Bay at W012-247, which is very secluded. SW of Priest’s Bay is the nice, crescent-shaped, sheltered Trabaun Strand at W010-245.
On an anticlockwise trip around, the coast from here to the well-named
Tides
The stretch of water around
The tidal stream floods E on both the N and S sides of
Gascanane Sound is between Sherkin and
In many places, especially Gascanane Sound, the tide runs fiercely, at up to 3kn, causing dangerous eddies and overfalls, especially near the rocks in the middle of Gascanane Sound, known as Carrigmore Rocks and Gascanane Rocks. The steepto rock on the Sherkin side of the sound is Illaunbrock.
V954-218 Sheet 88
This Gaelteacht island is truly the Land’s End of SW
The island is extremely waisted, the waist being known as ‘The Waist’, with
the
The co-operative club serves excellent meals and drink on the harbour, and Cotter’s Bar is also located here. There is a third wee pub up at the waist. A fourth, modern pub, Danny Mike’s, has been built just S of the waist, and excellent food may be had from breakfast to dinner time.
"Dún an Óir" (Gold Fort)
is the mediaeval castle on the projecting headland just WSW of the
There is the ruin of a lighthouse on the middle summit, which was the main
landfall light for ships arriving from
Incoming liners long ago passed by the island, and the passengers would toss
messages overboard in sealed containers.
These were forwarded from the signal station and arrived in
The island would repay a fortnight’s visit, and the walking repays fitness.
Landing
The main landing is at the beach in the well-sheltered pier in
Should conditions allow, landing is also very sheltered in
Circumnavigation
A circumnavigation is a committing 15km and requires good conditions and
planning. Note particularly that the tidal timings vary at each end of the
island. The crux of the trip will always be off
Begin and end at North or
There is a mighty sea arch at Pointanbullig on the E side of the
Camping
The main camping is a well-appointed campsite at V954-212. For kayakers,
this is inconvenient to the
The only possible camping ‘sauvage’ may be had inconveniently, on the N side where roads are shown going down to the sea, near the little rocky island Illauneana (V970-235). Nothing is known as to availability of water.
Hostels
B&B and a hostel may be had at Cotter’s Bar, just above the main pier.
There is an ‘An Oige’ youth hostel at the
Birding
At the pier in
When a new "first" (such as Yellow Bellied Sapsucker or Red Eyed Vireo, to name recent samples) gets reported on the bird grapevine, the island becomes suddenly thronged with highly motivated, intensely competitive individuals. They have all abandoned faraway families and jobs with zero notice, here to see, "tick" and "twitch" on the avian wonder that has dropped in. These people are not dangerous when approached, even when they occur in numbers. However, as they have no interest in those outside their own kind, they will mostly ignore you, so there is little point, and anyway they speak a language all their own.
Because of its extreme SW position, Cape Clear Island is directly in the path of long distance birds and cetaceans gaining and regaining the North Atlantic from all points E and S. Accordingly, Cape Clear is internationally famous for its migrants and vagrants, and virtually nowhere else in the country has as many rarities, and mega-rarities.
Most bird observation is done near the waist and on the W end of the island.
Dawn and dusk sea-watching of both birds and cetaceans is done mostly from
Blananarragaun at V947-197, which juts out at the extreme S tip of the island.
Get there by following a path along the top of the cliffs on the W side of
The area just behind the Youth Hostel is also a renowned birding spot, especially for the smaller passerines, and much ringing and counting takes place hereabouts. Good birds are seen further E on the island as well, especially on the N side, among the sheltered wooded spots.
Climbing
There is excellent rock climbing on the Bill of Clear, thin, well-protected slabs, and some steeper work, with plenty of scope remaining. These are reported in the ‘New Climbs’ bulletins of the late ‘80s.
Tides
The flood tide arrives at the W end of
In the E, the SE flood and the NW ebb each start (much earlier than above) at HW Cobh +0520 and 0055.
In the W, the flood separates at the Bill of Clear (V937-204), which juts
out from the N tip of the W side. The N branch is uncomplicated. The S branch
sets up heavy confused seas as it continues to Blananarragaun, the point 1.5km
to the SE, which juts out from the southern tip. After Blananarragaun, it makes
a big eddy anticlockwise around the
outer part of
On the ebb, there is a big eddy
set up by Blananarragaun, clockwise to the Bill of Clear and back along the
cliffs under
In many places, especially Gascanane Sound, the tide runs fiercely, at up to 3kn, causing dangerous eddies and overfalls, especially near Carrigmore Rocks and Gascanane Rocks in the middle of Gascanane Sound.
Offshore to the mighty Fastnet, the tides run E/W.
Fastnet Rock -
Carraig Aonair
V886-163 Sheet 88
Fastnet is remote. It lies about 20km from Baltimore or Schull. It is
easiest reached from
A first attempt to build the lighthouse was in cast iron, completed in 1853.
It wasn’t a success. In 1899, they began a granite replacement. This was first
constructed in
Landing
This is one of the more exposed lighthouse island landings, always subject
to surge and scend. Certainly, few enough kayakers get here, because it is
remote, but far fewer still go ashore, because to do so is so difficult.
Fastnet is on a shallow shelf, always kicking up in the 200m or so around the
rock. The landing platform is at the SE corner. Consider sending half the party
ashore at a time, for safety. It is said that the steps for landing are proud
of the water at LW. This has not been absolutely verified, but if so, it would
complicate a slingshot approach to trip planning, where one would leave
Tides
In prevailing westerlies, local kayakers agree it is perhaps best to do the whole thing on the flood. This allows one to arrive in plenty of time to land, take photos, and rest before coming ‘home’ on the last of the flood. The flood runs E from HW Cobh -0420 to +0200 over most of the gap between Fastnet and Clear. However, near the rock itself, it swerves towards the S.
W031-274 Sheet 88
The island is overgrown with difficult vegetation. The main landing spot is on the E side, under the ruined house. This island was obviously once a valued asset, but has now gone to ruin.
On the E side, there is a mangrove swamp type of environment, Aghillaun
Pool. It dries out at springs, is isolated, and possesses a primitive feeling.
It might be a campsite for refuge in bad westerly weather. There is a sheltered
landing in a shallow bay on the E side of the N entrance to
Aghillaun
W036-283 Sheet 88
A small, interesting satellite of
W024-276 Sheet 88
Off the N side of
The Catalogues
W018-275 Sheet 88
Smaller offshoot of
Land on a small sandy beach on the E side.
W007-277 Sheet 88
This inhabited low-lying island is the biggest in central
There is a famous restaurant on the island, the waiting list for which is legendary. Noted for its food being obtained on the island, the restaurant is known as ‘Island Cottage’, phone 028 38102.
Landing
There are landing points at either side of each waist, the best being on either side of the S waist. Of these, the E side probably just wins out, as the island is generally more attractive at its E end. Generally, the W end is more rugged where landings to camp may perhaps be forced for privacy.
The W side of the S waist is a good waystop, as there is fine shelter for picnicking behind a stone wall.
There are two islets on the N side, but the sounds are narrow, and the more easterly dries at springs.
Tides
Tides run strongly around both sides of the island, flooding SE and ebbing
NW, achieving 2kn in springs off the W side, downstream of Anima Rock, halfway
across to
Skeam East
V996-290 Sheet 88
A most attractive, tall, conifer-topped island. Goats and cows graze, and there are ruined stone farmhouses. The island is interesting, varied, and attractive. There is a seaarch in the SW. Generally a lovely island.
Landing and camping
There are landing places either side of the central EW waist, on sheltered beaches, (sandy W and pebbly E). There are idyllic campsites just above both. There is a small, remote pebble beach on the SW with good camping. No water found, anywhere.
Tides flood generally E and S around the island, the ebb reversing the process.
Skeam West
V985-287 Sheet 88
This EW lying island, NW of Hare, is also waisted EW. Coming from the NW (Schull) direction, there is a prominent wall, a slab, and some deep cuts, seen along the N side. The W end of the waist is not at all obvious, but is to be found at about the position of the wall. Here a sheltered pebble beach leads onto a rough longgrass campsite.
A landing may be had also at the slab, in a deep cut, typical of this island.
On the E side of the waist, opposite Skeam East, is another sheltered pebble beach, below refurbished, stone holiday houses. Here water perhaps may be had in summer.
The island is ungrazed and so is unattractive to most passing campers.
Tides flood generally E and S around the island, the ebb reversing the process. There is the ruin of a church.
Calf Island
(East)
V970-269 Sheet 88
The low-lying
There is a holiday house by the deep cut into the S side. Residents may therefore appear, but unlikely perhaps. Behind the cut is a brackish lake, where grazing cows congregate. Camp at the cut.
Camp elsewhere, particularly on the E side where there are many attractive little beaches backed by dunes. The most attractive of these is in the N. There is also a splendid, similar campsite on the W end of the N side.
Lesser Black-backed Gull.
V954-258 Sheet 88
The central
Calf Island
(West)
V949-256 Sheet 88
The W island is overgrown. It has no real beach, and perhaps there is a connection with Calf Island Middle. There are abandoned houses in the middle. Landing is in the sheltered part of the sound. Local paddlers prefer this of the three Calf islands for single overnight trips.
Carthy’s
V954-280 Sheet 88
A scattered group of little islands. Only the largest, westerly island has
easy, all-weather landing, onto stony beaches in cuts on the E side. These
should be chosen according to tide height. These islands make a pretty group.
They also make a strategically placed waystop for any tour of
Both Common and Grey Seal are present. Lesser Black-backed Gull.
Mannin Beg
W019-328 Sheet 88
The smallest of the four small islands tucked into the far NE corner of Roaringwater Bay proper, Mannin Beg is nevertheless known worldwide for its Norman castle restored for modern living at great expense by actors Jeremy Irons and Sinead Cusack. Such buildings were always built of stone, which is not necessarily a weathertight arrangement. The owners plastered the external walls top to bottom. Whatever interaction took place between the old stone and the modern plaster, and there are many theories to be had on the subject, it is really not known how it all ended up the colour it did. Certainly it cannot have been intentional. At first a violent pinkish red, it has now faded in 2006 after a few years to a rusty orange.
The parts of the island not covered by the castle and its ramparts have been planted with mixed forestry, and the conifers are faring better.
There is road access to the island on the NE side, but kayakers will manage passage under it at all stages of the tide. There is a pontoon arrangement by the bridge, on the island side.
There is no obvious access point to this corner of the bay and certainly a quay up towards Ballydehob at W005-341 is awkward even for one car and not recommended.
Mannin
W015-324 Sheet 88
Largest and most central of this group, Mannin is given over to the wild. Grass, heather, furze and gorse make progress difficult.A small herd of goat in 2006 may make a difference. Beachlet landings in SW and SE.
Illaunahnee
W014-325 Sheet 88
Illaunahnee is also given over to the wild, again with grass, heather, furze and gorse, but also briars. Unattractive. Land S side.
Ardillaun
W013-323 Sheet 88
As small as Mannin Beg, yet the most attractive island of the group. Grass and heather. Sausage shaped and flat on top. Land at E tip in tiny cove.Wonder at the mussel fisheries all around and admire the open and beautiful views.
V976-303 Sheet 88
This EW lying island, just E of Castle Island, is waisted N/S near its W end. A landing may be had N (by a pier) or S (on a beach) of the waist. The island is not grazed by domestic animals of any description. Accordingly, the grass is universally long and unsuitable for camping. Experimental forestation is being conducted, with both deciduous and coniferous trees, even on the highest ground. There are magnificent refurbished stonebuilt houses, one very substantial. They have generated electricity, and their own water supply.
V959-297 Sheet 88
A most attractive island, reached easily from Schull. Sheep graze so the camping and walking is easy. The island is very attractive to explore, being formerly sparsely populated. The boreens are nicely laid out, and the views are excellent. Good value all round. Chough nest, and Peregrine hunt.
The E going flood tide commences at HW Cobh -0605 and the W ebb at HW Cobh +0005, reaching 1.5 kn in Castle Island Channel (on the N side).
Landing and
Camping
The obvious landing point is at the beach at the pier under the castle at V959-297. In settled weather, more private and attractive camping may be had at a landing place on the S side of the waist on a beach at V959-296. Best camping of all perhaps, sheltered and with short grass, is by a group of abandoned houses at the extreme NE tip at V965-300. Here a landing may be had either side of a pebble spit. This site may be best for a stay of any duration, being remote from the normal access at the pier. No water found – anywhere, but a plentiful supply has been reported.
V920-285 Sheet 88
Landing and camping
The main landing to this inhabited island is midway along its N (sheltered, landward) side opposite the mainland, on a beach inside the pier.
The main habitation is in this area. There is more habitation further W. Further W again, the island is waisted N/S. On both sides of the waist, there are beaches and attractive camping sites. That on the S is less obvious as it is in a hidden and sheltered cove. Just further W of the waist, on the sheltered N side, is the wildest camping site. It is in a cove near the western tip of the island. Water is in the houses, and may be elsewhere.
The island is best known for its lighthouse (white tower) at its eastern
end, with landing steps, marking the entrance to
A significant interest on this island is how they get livestock to and from the mainland. They tow them. One boat tows another, and the towed boat has the cow attached to its stern, held fast. In more leisurely days, the cows swam the channel.
V908-288 Sheet 88
On the E side of the mouth of
V888-269 Sheet 88
The smaller
V893-274 Sheet 88
The main
V845-357 Sheet 88
The largest of the group of islands nestling in against the S shore of the bay, about halfway down. This island is the only one of the group with a dwelling. It was privately owned by an Englishman in 2001, who reputedly used it for a fortnight or so in August each year. The house is beautiful, built to a very high specification, in local stone and aged pitch pine. It has its own generator, deep well, and septic tank. The island suffers for being ungrazed and is thus given over universally to long grass, gorse, and heather.
Landing
Land at a beach below the house midway on the E side. Here a pontoon has been thoughtfully provided. No water is available to casual passers-by. Camping is not easy because of long grass. Respect the privacy of the owner at all times.
V852-359 Sheet 88
The remotest and smallest of the group, to the ENE of Carbery, an ungrazed lump of remote grass and rock. Known locally for its seal population, there is also a strong roosting colony of Sandwich Tern. No water. No camping. Land at a sandy beachlet at the E end of a cut, which almost severs the island from an area of rock to its N.
V853-354 Sheet 88
An inappropriately named island in the middle of the group, this pleasant grassy island benefits enormously from the grazing of just a couple of cows. Almost as large as Carbery, one may camp almost anywhere. Land at the NE tip onto shingle and boulder. Cows need water so water there must be, but none has been found, yet. Many seals off the NE.
V856-352 Sheet 88
A small member of the group closest to the mainland on the Mizen side, it boasts a large Sally tree (Salix Caprea), most unexpectedly, in the NE corner. Land just below the tree onto a gravel spit that, at LW, separates the island from an off-lying rock. Alternatively, land at the head of a deep inlet at the same point. Ungrazed. No water. No camping.
It is a feature of many of the smaller
Embarkation
The handiest put in point for Whiddy and its satellites is undoubtedly at the slipway V983-482, on the road W out of Bantry town, just by the graveyard. There is good parking and easy launching at a slipway and gravel beach. Note in particular that the ferry pier in Bantry 1km E can be very busy, though it does have toilets and water.
History of the
area
A major pilchard fishery flourished until late
in the 1700s. It is estimated that over 3,000 were engaged in that
industry at its height. Just as when the Donegal herring fishery
collapsed suddenly at much the same time, the devastation to the local economy
was horrendous. Unlike pilchards, most
other fishing is seasonal, and relatively small time.
The major modern historical event in the history
of Bantry was the arrival in the bay in 1798 of a French invasion fleet of 15,000
men organised by Wolfe Tone. However, like
a previous French effort a century earlier, this invasion took place in
December, which was bad timing. The weather turned into a full blown
storm from the NE. Some of the French vessels managed to enter the bay
and anchor but the weather deteriorated further. The French cut their
anchor cables and headed to sea. Had their invasion succeeded, maybe Corkmen would
be speaking French to this day?
The redoubt at Reenavanny on
From then on
In September 1918 the US Navy Air
Wing established a seaplane base here, at the WSW end of
In 1938 the ports of
The
Whiddy is the site of a large oil
terminal constructed in the WSW in 1967 by Gulf Oil. On Monday, January 8, 1979 a French oil tanker, the Betelgeuse, was unloading a cargo of crude oil at the oil terminal when it
exploded. The blast and subsequent fire killed 50 people. The facility was subsequently
transferred to the Irish government in 1986 after which it has since been used
to hold the Irish strategic oil reserve.
During the 1960s, developments in
the pattern of oil transportation indicated that it would soon become most
economic to move oil between the Middle East and
The intention was that oil coming
from the
In 1966, Gulf Oil identified
The offshore facility was
comprised of an island type berth (known colloquially as “the jetty") 488m
in length, approximately 396m from the shore of the island. The jetty was
capable of accommodating vessels of up to 500,000 metric tons of deadweight
(DWT), although no such vessels existed at that time.
The terminal was very successful
for the first five years of operation, but then events began to move against
it. The
Late on 6 January 1979, the Betelgeuse
commenced discharging its 114,000 tonnes of crude oil, which was expected to
take about 36 hours. Early on Monday, 8 January, a rumbling or cracking
noise was heard from the vessel, followed shortly by a huge explosion within
its hull. The force of the explosion was seen to blow men from the jetty into
the sea. Local residents reported seeing the Betelgeuse engulfed in a
ball of fire a few moments later. A series of further explosions followed,
breaking the vessel in half. Much of the oil cargo still on board ignited and
this generated temperatures estimated to exceed 1,000 °C. The concrete
jetty crumbled and firefighters were unable to get near the vessel. The
firefighters concentrated their efforts on preventing the fire from spreading
to the tanks of the storage farm and on containing the oil spillage. Local
families living on the island fled for their lives.
The Betelgeuse sank at her
moorings in 30m of water, which largely extinguished the main body of the fire.
In spite of this, rescue workers were not able to approach the wreck (some of
which was still above water) for two weeks due to clouds of toxic and
inflammable gas surrounding it. After two weeks, it was possible to start
recovering bodies from the wreck and pumping off the remains of the oil cargo
that was still on board.
The Irish government appointed a
tribunal to investigate the incident, which took a year to hear evidence and
prepare a 480 page report. That seemed extravagant at the time, but more
recent Irish legal experiences make it seem a model of efficiency. The report indicated three main factors that
had contributed to the incident:
·
The
poor condition of the Betelgeuse which had been worked hard and was at
the end of its service life,
·
Incorrect
unloading sequences and ballasting, and
·
Inadequate
and poorly maintained fire fighting and rescue systems both on the vessel and
on the jetty.
All the crew on board the ship at
the time of the incident (41 in total) are believed to have died, although not
all the bodies were found. In addition, one visitor to the ship (an officer's
wife) and eight terminal workers were killed. During the salvage operation, the
life of a diver was lost.
In 1986, Gulf surrendered its
lease on the site to the Irish government. The government used the terminal to hold its
strategic oil reserve. Initially, oil movement to and from the terminal was
carried out by road. In 1990, at the time of the first Gulf War, an improvised
repair was carried out to the jetty to allow an oil tanker to offload at the
terminal on a one-off basis. In 1996 an unloading buoy was installed and this
has been used since that time.
A memorial sculpture, incorporating the ship's bell which was recovered from the wreck, has been erected in the hillside graveyard close by the embarkation point, overlooking the harbour. The bodies of two unidentified casualties from the incident are interred nearby.
V969-495 Sheet 85
Step back in time when you land. Whiddy exists in 1920s time, except for the oil storage facility in the WSW end. With the otherwise exception of a lovely pub (with tennis court) the Bank House at the ferry quayside, the roads and fields are straight from a period film. There is only one really nice swimming place, on a beach to the NE at V968-507, but no road goes there. The scale of the mussel fishing on the E side has to be seen to be believed. There seems to be a couple of batteries and forts, redoubts even, also up the NE, but any access seems private. Even the public roads have occasional gates, presumably for convenience driving cattle. There is the impression that if one got to know its ways, Whiddy would open up to the tourist, but all in all the day-tripper isn’t accommodated the way he might be used to on similar sized islands elsewhere.
A bicycle is a worthwhile asset exploring the
island on a day-trip. All the roads are
cul-de-sacs so walking would be wearisome eventually. The oil storage is a “must see” with more
than a dozen big containers housing the nation’s strategic oil reserves, that
constantly vent and groan. The big ships
don’t come ashore anymore, so the jetty 300m off the WSW point is redundant and
looks like a scene from a post apocalypse movie. The S shore is prettiest, especially around
the
The island is about 6km long and 2.5km
wide. As late as 1880 it had a resident population of around 450, mainly
engaged in fishing and small-scale farming. It currently has a permanent
resident population of around 20 people, although there are many visitors in
the tourist season.
The island is linked to the
mainland by the Ocean Star ferry, which runs return trips several times a day, and
in summer, cruises around the island are also available.
Landing
Thre main landing spot is at the ferry quayside at Trawnahaha V969-495, on beaches either side. In 2008 there was an artificial beach on the E side, courtesy of Conoco Oil, where a new slipway was put in to take the car ferry that services the oil storage facility. Chance the mussels or chowder at the Bank House, splendid each.
Circumnavigation
Tides flow strongly between the island and Bantry. Going clockwaise probably utilises the prevailing conditions best. Much of the exploring en-route will be on the off shore satellites. Going ashore is possible pretty much at will except for some parts of the long NW facing side. Cusroe V966-485 is a nice sheltered spit. There is a slip at V945-488 opposite the industrial scale pier V943-487, below a quick launch building similar to an RNLI station, only bigger, that probably houses an emergency fire fighting ship. The jetty at V942-494 is to be looked at but kept away from, for fear it would fall on you. The oil demesne extends over a third the way up the outward shore, and the first realistic stop might be at the stony cove V957-499 or V962-505. However these coves, like any W facing cove hereabouts, catch the oil spillages, and are dirty underfoot. Much nicer is the clean NE facing gravel beach at V968-507. Rounding the corner brings the mariner into surely the greatest raft of mussel farms in the country. These appear at first to be an obstacle but it is heartening to see the local yachts sail at breakneck speed through the gaps and channels between them. Altogether the expedition is about 14km.
V968-490 Sheet 85
Small agricultural island 500m S for Trawnahaha quay, divided into two fields, each with cattle. There are alder and hawthorn trees sparsely on the NW side. Land on a stony beach at the SW point where a roadway has been broken into the interior, or onto a more benign gravel beach at the W point. Except for this roadway, access to the interior is otherwise entirely and even remarkably impossible.
Lousy
V955-484 Sheet 85
Tiny islet, midway along S side of Whiddy, home to Tree Mallow, and breeding Cormorant and Herring Gull. A stone wall on the S and N sides intrigue, but it seems unlikely there was ever a castle here, unless the builders really were pretty awful. Land on the E side onto sloping shelves.
Gerane East
V935-485 Sheet 85
The highest and largest of three rocks 500+m off the aptly named Whiddy Point West. Geranes West and Middle also boast Grey Seal, but given their heights above HW, all breeding is probably done on Gerane East. In July 2008 there were several pups, so care is needed not to distress or disrupt. Shag also breed. Pleasant. Great viewpoint for “the jetty” to the NE. Land easily onto shelves on the SE side.
The man-built now-redundant
concrete offshore oil-landing facility (known colloquially as “the jetty")
488m in length, looks like a scene from a post-Holocaust movie, having been
destroyed by fire and expolsion in 1979. In the 1960s it was built to very
future-proof specifications, being capable of accommodating vessels of up to
500,000 metric tons of deadweight (DWT), although no such vessels existed anywhere
in the world when it was built.
V985-507 Sheet 85
Small grassless islet among the mussel farms, 1km ESE of Whiddy Point East. The summit is of round boulders that must be awash at times. Land almost anywhere onto rocks, to choice.
V979-503 Sheet 85
1km S of Whiddy Point East. The interior is entirely inaccessible to
ordinary mortals, being one hundred percent surrounded by unscaleable cliffs composed
of rubble and sub-soil. Land at SE or
anywhere. A candidate for
V980-497 Sheet 85
1.5km N of the embarkation point. A large twin island, the interior of the smaller W half is accessible. There are the remains of a cottage in the dip between the two halves, on the W side. There are that many rabbits about the W end that tripping in a burrow is a potential danger. The whole W half is overrun with ragweeds. There is also slight evidence of ancient lazybeds. Two horses grazed in 2008. Very pleasant.
The bigger E half is inaccessible. A pedestrian access was forced at one time at the narrow prow leading from the dip, but it has eroded so much that it is now dangerous. Consequently, the interior has gone back to the wild, and holds no apparent interest for the recreational user.
Land easily either side of the dip onto gravely beaches. No water found.
A pleasant, sheltered spot for an excursion on a short or windy day. It is interesting to dodge in and out among the smaller rocks and islands of the bay, trying not to disturb seals and other wildlife, admiring the posh houses and boats, goats, and generally luxuriant landscape. Some of the islets are individually mentioned. Note the warnings on visiting Garinish. Do not disturb the seals. Local boats bring tourists to view the seals so any messing about is less than appreciated. The local boats can phut-phut up to within a few feet of the seals and be ignored. Familiarity breeds contempt. Kayaks, being unfamiliar, are held in high esteem by the seals, who panic on sight. Otter are reported, and terns. Camping is neither appropriate nor welcomed, nor was it found.
Embarkation
Probably easiest from a sheltered pier and slip about 1km S of Glengarriff where the Castletown Bearhaven road meets the sea at a spot called locally ‘Ellen’s Rock’ at V925-552. Smaller ferries than those from Glengarriff ply from here, and the landing spot on Garinish can be seen 1km to the E.
V934-550 Sheet 85
The island is State owned and much visited for its Italian gardens. The
gardens are open in summer from about 11.00 to 5.30. There is a
Landing
To avoid serious upset, land only at the official landing point, midway on the N side, in a shallow cove. There is a stony beach at LW, and otherwise a slip. There is also a pier, a cafe, and a turnstile through which pay to enter. There is a boathouse in a cut in the NE side and a slip nearby at V936-550, servicing the restricted (private residence) part of the island. There are shingle beaches either side of the Yellow Rocks off the S side.
V937-560 Sheet 85
Rhododendron and fern saturated, a small, humpy island, ESE of Glengarriff town. Land either side of prominent waist. The island has nothing to recommend it to kayakers though it is a significant navigational marker for visiting yachts.
Murphy’s
Island -
V943-557 Sheet 85
Fern and Scots Pine covered rocky lump, hard in by the NE shore, inside a prominent mussel farm. Otherwise inconspicuous up against the shore. Of little interest other than it is owned by Maureen O’Hara. Land by the S tip onto rocks.
Garvillaun
V940-551 Sheet 85
Prominent if small island, off the NE side of Garinish, fern and pine
covered. It is best not to land at the cut halfway along NW side, as seals
inhabit the island. Even more are on its sister rock,
Garinish West
V898-503 Sheet 85
Privately owned, small, attractive and well wooded island, lying 200 m off the coast, midway between Glengarriff and Adrigole. It has two formal landings in the SW and NW corners. Both have small pier and steps, but there is also a small stony beach just S of the NW pier, for which kayaks will make. The SW landing is closer to the mainland and would appear to be the more frequently used. Notices are placed at both landings that landing should only be made with permission, so ask locally.The island has a holiday home on its E side which is well screened from view by well planned and maintained gardens and groves of pines. The island has been tastefully planned and laid out with walkways, shrubs, trees and heathers. There is even an irrigation system, fed by gravity tanks centred on the highest part of the island. It appears that the system is linked into the mainland mains-water scheme.
The island and the small quay on the adjacent
mainland at V896-504 give good shelter for those on passage, or a
useful lunch spot for touring inner
V900-498 Sheet 85
Small rocky island 1km S of Garinish West. Grass, nettles, gorse and a
stand of Tree Mallow dominate the vegetation. Its summit has an interesting
old stone built navigation mark, one of several on prominent points
to be seen on the approaches to
Orthan’s
V810-490 Sheet 84
Central to the beautiful and well sheltered
Roancarrigmore
V792-459 Sheet 84
This is a low-lying lighthouse island, located 2km E of Lonehort Point on
Embarkation
Set out from a very private little pier with a gravel beach beside, 2km to the N at V793-477. The pier is itself a lovely place. It is poorly signposted off the main road and care is needed, to avoid frustrating to-ing anf fro-ing. The road from the N is a cul-de-sac, despite Sheet 84.
Landing
The traditional landing is onto a pier with steps on its N flank, which can be difficult for kayakers in that the steps are narrow and very prone to Atlantic swell. In calm conditions a landing is also possible onto rock shelves either side of the main pier, but at about HW, it is probably best into a narrow cut just NE. Here a narrow gap allows access into a small pool and a relatively easy landing.
Lighthouse
Complex
The exposure of the lighthouse compound to the elements becomes apparent almost immediately as one takes in the height of the protective wall running along the S and SW flank. Within the SW orientated enclosure, there is the feel of a walled garden, there are stands of Tree Mallow and other marine plants, and remnants of some old gardens can be seen. A walkway leads to the helipad and beyond that the SW wall.
Fauna
The island has a good breeding population of gulls, while small numbers of Curlew, Oystercatcher, Turnstone and Common Seal can be found during the winter months.
Camping
Camping is possible in the main enclosure, although perhaps not in the breeding season - March through July, as this is the main area. No water found.
Film
Roancarrig More and Beg are included in the film set for the Neal Jordan’s latest spectacular film “Ondine”, about a mermaid who falls in love with Colin Farrell, filmed in late summer 2008.
Roancarrigbeg
V788-465 Sheet 84
This small low-lying
rocky islet is
surrounded by outlying reefs and shoals.
It lies 0.5km NNW of
Roancarrigmore and, as of July 2008, was dominated by the remains of a wreck,
which, when viewed from a distance, gives this otherwise flat rock an
interesting perspective.
Ghost Ship
Stranger than any Neal Jordan film about any mermaid on a rock is the true story of the 27 year old Spanish fishing vessel Nuestra Senora de Gardotza, the wreck that now deteriorates year by year on this rock. Having died in heavy seas on 30th January 1990, the wreck was at first nothing more than an eyesore, until it became famous 10 years later in December 2000.
Another Spanish fishing vessel, called the Zorro Zaurre, got into difficulties after the vessel sprang a leak with
13 crew on board, 140 miles S of Mizen Head on November 30th 2000.
All the crew were airlifted by the RAF to
Over a week later, on December 8th the Irish naval ship L.E. Orla was asked to follow up a
report that a slight diesel slick and fish boxes had been seen in
Imagine the shock when it transpired the two were sister ships, same owner,
same manufacturer, same hometown in
Neal Jordan – follow that !
Landing
Land fairly dependably in the NE onto a sheltered stony beach in a lagoon.
This is accessed through an
obvious break in the shoals but this may not be possible if swell is running
high. Timing of a landing into this lagoon is probably best at or about HW. The
lagoon is a pleasant surprise, and on a good day, a great place for a swim.
V789-474 Sheet 84
This medium
sized island is located just off the mainland. Landing is onto a stony beach in
a well protected and attractive little bay at the NE end of the island. The bay
has a hideaway setting, and at HW makes a good picnic/swimming spot for those
on passage. Camping is possible just
above the beach. However the rest of the island is rough, ungrazed, and
quite difficult to explore. The terrain and vegetation cover is not welcoming
and the walker is forced to explore the edges only. No water found and no
evidence of any previous habitation.
V686-446 Sheet 84
17.2 sq.km. Bear Haven, a natural harbour of naval importance for centuries,
separates this massive island from the mainland. The permanent population is
about 200. The distinctly mountainous W end of the island, opposite Castletown
Bearhaven, is the most convenient to reach. There are many ‘Private’ signs about
the W end, but the
The many guns and fortifications on the island were mostly built as recently
as 1910, and some held IRA prisoners during the War of Independence. There are
two
Two ferries ply between the mainland and the island. The western ferry is from downtown Castletown Bearhaven. The eastern ferry is from Beal Lough at V717-463, 3km E of the town.
Embarkation
and Landing
The harbour of the major fishing town of
Tides
Bear Haven is a natural harbour/sound varying from narrow and mountainous at its western entrance, to low and shallow at its eastern end. Tides flow in and out at both ends simultaneously, meeting in the middle. The stronger tides flow through the W entrance, at 2kn, and turbulence may be expected. Tides are not strong otherwise in the sound. At the eastern entrance, they reach 0.5kn. Tides enter and leave much as with local HW/LW, to and from about HW Cobh -0045.
Circumnavigation
There are many interesting spots in the 21km around the island, some of which are listed here, clockwise from the W end.
V674-433 Just inside the narrowest point of the western entrance to Bear Haven, it is reachable by backpacking or paddling. The landing is onto sheltered steps, easily identified inside a large yellow buoy and below a zigzag track. A seriously idyllic camping spot, midge free. Shore fishing. Water nearby.
V677-440 Gun forts (private) at Fort Point, and also just S at V677-435.
V696-447 There are a number of choices for more private camping away from ferries, but for those constrained to use the inside channel, perhaps the nicest would be about 1km E of the western ferry arrival point. Keep away from either ferry as the water is churned up and the swimming unattractive.
V741-443 There is a handy stony
beach at a slip just inside
V748-447 E of the eastern ferry is low lying, but there is a super campsite in the shallow bay near two houses, and also elsewhere E of there towards Lonehort Point.
V755-443 Lonehort Harbour lies SW of Lonehort Point. Though storm beaches separate the two, the harbour is the more dependable resting point on a circumnavigation. A bump may be expected at several points along the outside, including Leahern’s Point.
V755-435 Leahern’s Point, sheltering Lonehort harbour.
V739-434 Storm beach at
Coosavaud (means ‘
V721-427 Splendid little cove with a very narrow, S facing entrance, just NE of prominent Greenane Rock, gives great respite. It is better than the nearby and more obvious SW facing cove below houses at V724-428.
V672-423 There is no respite from the above cove until the lighthouse at Ardnakinna Point, but watch for the waterfall at about V712-424, and there are others.
V671-424 Illaundoonagaul, almost an island, has sea arches of the finest variety, which, being inside the entrance, are very inspectable.
Dinish
V688-457 Sheet 84
In Bear Haven, sheltering the town, this island is now connected to the mainland by a bridge, and consists entirely of an industrial park, mainly of the heavy marine variety. It is worth the walk around to see the big boats and big machinery. Land anywhere except in the NW sector (facing Castletown Bearhaven) where the main quay is. Sea kayakers might want to camp by the boathouse in the NE corner so as to walk into town, but otherwise of zero interest to small boats.
V695-457 Sheet 84
In Bear Haven, 1km E of Dinish. Small, rough, unmeritorious, flat little island with coniferous plantation hiding old ruins. Land most anywhere that is sheltered.
V742-445 Sheet 84
Located at
the eastern entrance to Laurence’s Cove on
V506-414 Sheet 84
Huge but sparsely populated island (permanent population of 9) of Great
Blasket proportions. It is connected to the mainland by cable car (the only
such in
Embarkation
In calm conditions, launching is practical (if a bit awkward) at Dursey Sound, from the pier at V507-418. Certainly, no exploration of the outer parts of the island or the off-lying rocks would be sensible if conditions made launching impossible here. More dependably, there is a magnificent, sheltered strand at the pier and slip at White Strand Quay, in the extreme SW of Allihies Bay, at V523-428.
Landing and
Camping
The pier and steep slip at V506-414 are well sheltered, just outside the S entrance to the sound. No water was found nearby but there must be. Camping is possible just SW of the slipway towards an old churchyard. There is no easy landing other than at the slipway. Rock pools just S of the slipway, which form and un-form with the tide, may provide a landing.
Historic
O’Sullivan Bere ruled here until 1601. When gaelic
Tides
The 14km circumnavigation is a challenging experience, and races may be expected off the twin outermost points, and elsewhere as tides and wind dictate. Tides flow up to 4kn in Dursey Sound and constantly boil, especially over a rock in mid-channel, under the cable-car wires. There is usually clapotis at the NE corner of the sound, which kayakers have found to extend 1.5km to Garinish Point to the NE. Beware flukey winds at the N entrance. The flood eddies on both sides of the southern entrance.
Off the outer tip of Dursey lie the Calf, the Heifer, the Cow and the Bull,
mighty, remote and challenging rocks. Until recently, no kayaks had landed. Off
these, the main tidal streams around
Tides flood E along both sides of Dursey Island and S through Dursey Sound, from HW Cobh -0500 to +0130. On the flood though, there is extensive eddying in the bay between the S entrance to Dursey Sound and Crow Head to the S.
Illanebeg
V504-410 Sheet 84
A small, sheep-grazed island just SSW of the slipway on Dursey, attached to Dursey except at higher waters and deeply cut from the E, W and S. Despite casual appearances, there are no easy landings possible at any stage of the tide.
The Bull Rock